My best advise is to keep the little kitten baby bottles I feed them with (not always needed, but makes for extra cuddly and attached babies), and continue to give them a 'treat' with it. It doens't even have (nor should it be, once they're older then 6 months or so) to contain cat milk. Warm water will get the same exited response (oh boy, oh boy, its my BOOOOTTLE). There is nothing funnier than my almost fully grown Tom going crazy at the sight of it. It is not only their most treasured treat and comfort, it is, incidentally, the most pleasent method of getting medicine into your cat without having to go through the drastic measures of towel wrapping. Which, by the way, doesn't work anyway and still leaves you with being scratched to pieces. Under NO circumstance, ever, give your cat aspirin. It's active ingredient is a deadly poison for felines. As I said, most problems that you will encounter from time to time are minor, but the most annoying with long haired cats is: |
Diarrhea happens when you switch food brands, give unhealthy treats, or leave the trash bag open and available for discovery. To treat it, there is nothing better than a mix of betonit clay powder and slippery elm powder (please, organic and food grade only, okay? I always carry it, it is not expensive at all and goes a long way. Ask me, I'll be more than happy to get you some. Its really a LOT cheaper than pills, much more effective, and safe). Usually one treatment is enough. I use about 1/2 teaspoon of each, mix into a paste with cold water, (it tends to clumb, treat it like you would make the paste for flour gravy), then gradually add more warm water until you have a smooth liquid. Fill into baby bottle, and voila, cat will gobble it down. For the particular finicky, you can also add a 1/2 tsp of powdered cat milk. If they are really, really bad off, I give them a second dose the same day, about 6 hours or so later. Then, preventative, a very thin (weak, about 1/4 tsp each) dose once a day for the next few days, maybe half a bottle full. The betonit soaks up all toxins and binds them for elimination, the slippery elm soothes and coats the digestive tract. Both together will stuff up any runs within hours. Works for humans just as well, by the way. Don't worry, you can't overdose, there are no side effects, or any dangers healthwise. There is, however, the chance of stuffing up your kitty for a few days if you give them too much. It won't harm them, and you'll need to practice with your dosage until you get it right. Wait for the next bowel movement (in severe cases of D. that will be right away as soon as they eat) and adjust the dose according to, ereee, consistancy :) It also helps to switch the food entirely to dry morsels. They will absorb extra liquid in the stomach. I find that dried food is usually the better choice anyway. There is no brand of catfood that I know of that will NOT cause Diarrhea from time to time, with the exception of the very expensive quality. I have excellent experience with Purina kitten chow (dry) and Royal Canine Sensitive for the grown ups. Obviously, quality is something left to be desired when it comes to not changing ingredients in lesser brands. And cats, especially the long haired breeds, are suspectible to change. While Stress (like an impending move or being left alone and treated to the cat sitter) CAN cause upsets in the digestive tract, nothing is so surefire as to change your normal brand. You can experiment, of course, but I find it not worth the trouble. They can't handle anything with liver in it, usually the whitefish and other seafood smell funny even to ME (so no wonder they either barf or poop), and egg is a chancy 'youneverknow' option. They DO love tuna, and the oil is great for their coats. So why not just treat them to a 'real' can, and give them a little treat here and there? No more then 1/4 can please, or the oil will... well, you know. Moderation is the key. They also love turkey or chicken, and digest it with no negative results whatsoever. They adore veggies, so give them your leftovers, why don't you? Contrary to common believe, that is a heck more healthy than what you get in a animal food can! And their natural diet would include grains and grass (i.e. in the tummy of a mouse) if they were given the choice. No chicken parts with bones please, they splinter and damage the esophagus, possibly causing death. Otherwise, strictly dry food is your best bet, and good for the teeth too. Remember, cats older then 7 need 'senior' food reduced in protein, else, again, you'll have a cat with kidney failure destined to happen. |
If you have more than one, you might run into small wounds due to playful catfights. I find that any scrapes or minor wounds heal best when I simply apply propolis cream (pure propolis powder infused in castor oil for about a year or so - ask me about it, I always have some at hand - best wound healer for US too, by the way). For major scratches that are deep or look infected, I use peoples paste (goldenseal root, slippery elm, comfrey root, myrrh) powder sprinkled onto the area directly. The bitter taste has the pleasent side effect from keeping it being licked off. Propolis in tincture form is also a wonderful 1st aid regimen. |
If you let them out, or have contact with other cats (or you do) it is possible they will get some fungus or other at least once during their life. Symtoms are scratching, tufts of hair (more than usual, that is), bald spots, and/or flaky (usually white) skin, almost like dandruff. Get diagnosed, but heavens, don't dump them into the highly toxic chemical solution you will be given. If it is bad, I would concur to the internal treatment, but externally, use colloidial silver water, chamomille, or again, propolis creme (the bees know what they're doing. Propolis kills any and all invading bacteria, viri, and fungi, known to men). If that doesn't help, write me with detailed symptoms. And don't forget to desinfect anything the animals had contact with, or reinfection is programmed. That includes the sleeping place, furniture, and/or clothes. Consider yourself lucky if you didn't get it, unless you were the one who 'carried it in' in the first place. Outside cats are at risk like you wouldn't believe. But then, you dont' really want your Silkens outside. They are too friendly and someone will find them irresistable to take along. |
Unfortunately, unless you have the stamina to brush their teeth often (there are specially designed brushes for cats, but who wants to fight on a daily basis? They HATE it) you will eventually have to deal with infected incisors. As a rule, if it looks bad, have them pulled. Cats do NOT need their teeth. My siamese (approaching 20 years of age) has been toothless for 4 years, and is happier then ever! Constant toothache will make for a miserable cat, and to get it over with is MUCH better. Experience showed that while you can treat it, it's more efford (and pain for the cat) than it is worth, and a once infected or rotting tooth will always flare up again. Nocando on the root canal, y'know. I used weakened tooth and gum potion (homemade, Dr. Schulze recipe) highly dilluted with echinacea extract, but it makes them foam at the mouth somwehat fiercely. It IS dulling the pain immensely, but he cat is NOT a happy camper. Spilantes (aka the toothache plant) extract is the better solution, only, the darn plant won't grow for me in this climate |
Although the Silkens carry their name for a reason and do not need extensive or deep brushing as a rule, every once in a while a red Tom leaps back to its Persian genes and gets a fluffy undercoat. Normally sold 'cat' brushes will NOT touch beyond the silky layer, you will have to use a long toothed comb (not fine toothed please, those things suck! They cause nothing but pain and don't do any good) to get to the skin. Best on the market is a poodle brush (hooked metal bristles) and a regular poodle comb with thick metal teeth and a wooden handle. Anyway, for whatever reasons your cat (I'm politely trying not to point out your negligence here) developed knots, they HAVE GOT TO GO. Not only is it painful and uncomfortable for the cat, the heat developing underneath a knotted area is also the perfect breeding ground for all kinds of skin deseases, up to and including excema, absess, and fungus. If they are small, distangle them into minor parts, then pull each one out with either your fingers or the comb. The cat will yelp (you would too) but it's nothing compared to the possible alternatives. If you are secure and versed in dealing with your cat, use small scissors. If possible wiggle a small comb underneth the knot, that eliminates the chance you cut the skin. (I helps to have a second pair of hands, or if you had previously trained your cat to go belly up, easily done during loving grooming - talk to them, explain what you want, what you're doing, and why - they do understand, even if they don't like it. If they fight too much, be stern and tell them in a nononsense voice that you've had it, or else. If that doesn't work, ELSE them - I use a small gentle tap with one finger on the side of the face, just like the mother cat uses with their kittens. In the training phase of feisty adolescents, you might sometimes have to assert your superity by slightly smacking them on the butt, but I only exercise that when they are forgetting themselves AFTER gently having been reminded numerous times, and are biting for real while playing. But always, always talk (scold) them too so they learn why they're getting the third degree. Even in worst cases two or three times usually gets the message across. Whatever you do, never give in or you'll fight a loosing battle the next time. You can also grab them by the neck and wiggle a bit (don't pick them up by the neck with their weight after 6 months of age or so or you'll pull muscles). It works wonders, they are conditioned to go 'oh-uh' and obediently limb immediately). If it's too tight for the comb, carefully snip off as close as you can. The smaller the scissors (nail scissors work best) the better. If you DO accidetly nip them, don't feel bad, it can happen if they jerk, but it has to be done. Apply peoples paste powder, it'll stop bleeding and heal overnight. No bigger deal than accidently being scratched by THEM. Trouble zones to watch for: Behind the ears, inside of the upper legs, flanks, butt. By the way, it helps if you shave or cut off the 'hose' on he back side of the legs and beehind area. Makes cleaning and maintenance SO much easier. On my boys, we do this about once every 3 months if you do a full shave, every 2 months or so if you cut off the long hair only; the girls just get clipped a tiny bit (they don't tend to grow a 'mane' there) whenever needed. |
Cats will be cats... their eyes get snatched, scratched, irritated, while playing, or the little one's (yes, there are definately 'blonde' cats) might snag their claws into an eye while washing. I find the best thing to do is apply a drop of pure (unsulfured) castor oil. It is soothing, draws out infecion and puss (no pun intended) and usually gets the whole messy red swelling to go away in a day or two. It even heals open tears. Speaking of CLAWS: If you value your skin (not to mention your furniture, pantihose, new sweater.....) you should clip the claws at least once a month. Safety nail clippers (not the type that act like scissors, the type that folds over to open) work best. ONLY clip the white/colorless/clear tip of each claw, ususally that's the curved part. The earlier you start training your cat, the easier it will be. They will fight fiercely the first few times. Be firm, and don't, but also reasure and praise a lot. You get a lot further with patience then with scolding. Believe me, a cat with long claws is not happy, and you can't have the vet do it under anastesia (see the kidney problem). Learn how to do it, its your job ;) Place kitty firmly on your lab. Butt down. Left hand under top part of cat, make them sit up. You can lean them backwards and support them with your chest. Left arm firmly anchors the cat to you, left hand holding front forearm/paw, thumb and forefinger push out each claw separately, then clip curve off. Fast. Most cats are ticklish. Condition them young, play with their feet, pushing out claws by way to teasing them. Repeat with hind feet. This works best if cat lays half on back, still supported by your upper body If you DO cut into the pink area, you hit the blood vessels and will know immediately. Firstly, because the cat will holler bloody murder (ask me how I know) and secondly, because the bleeding is profusely, and won't stop by itself. And I mean, EVER, from the looks of it. You have to patch it up by clogging the open claw, preferably with something antiseptic. I use a drop of propolis tincture (although it is very rare we have an accident). Fix up kitty, offer apologies (and a generous treat of tuna/turkey/favorite treat) and some extensive coddling, and all is forgiven. You'll learn, and it is bound to happen one of these days, so don't worry about it too much. It is still better then a trip to the vet. |
When you first get a new kitten, it will be a while until they can remember the layout of the house. Ideally, keep it in the same room the litter box is (usually the bathroom) for an hour or so. When you let it out the first time, keep other doors locked, i.e. bedroom and kitchen, allowing it to explore one room at the time to get used to the idea. If you plan on keeping it in the bedroom at night, you have got to have another litter box there for a few months. Waking up, having to go, the way is too long, even if they could remember where to go. However, if accidents occurr, make sure you discipline the kitten. The first time, bring its nose close, scolding, then pick it up by the scruff of the neck (this should not be done beyond age 6 months or so, or you can pull neck muscles and cause serious injuries... after weight gain occurrs, if you do this, you have to support the body weight with your other hand) and deposit it in the litter box. Pet and praise lavishly, even if no 'business' is conducted. If it happens a SECOND time, follow procedure as above, but keep kitten locked into the litter box room for at least half an hour by way of reminder. If they attempt to use the box while you see it, follow the lavish praise with a treat. If you did everything right, and the setup is as suggested, no more reminders should be needed. It might take a few weeks until they are completely accident free, although they leave my house completely trained. If it doesn't stop, or an adult cat goes messy, it could have three reasons: 1. You have more than one cat and this one does not want to share a box. Would you? Get another one. 2. You are not cleaning the box often enough. Who want's to step into their own mess? Clean twice a day! Wash out the box if it gets dirty or smelly, at least twice a month with one cat, more often if stuff got stuck to the sides. If you can see/smell it, imagine what kitty goes through. They are VERY picky. Leaving a sign right in front of the litter box is a surefire indication, a message loud and clear. The fault is yours, do not punish the cat. 3. You changed the littter brand, or for some strange reason the cat simply doens't like it anymore. Maybe the manufacturer added a new scent, or changed the recipe? Try out other brands. Clumb litters are usually accepted best. Whatever you do, stay away from those crystals. 4. The cat has a medical condition and no other way to get your attention. Peeing tomcats very often have a urinary tract infection. If you are sure it is not emotional, and occurs more then once, have them checked out. There are also numerous non-physical reasons. Especially if the cat is doing business right in front of you, it is trying to tell you something. Sometimes they are jealous, feel mistreated or ignored, or afraid. Cause for such mental disorders could be change of family condition (new additions, move, stress, arguments, neglect) to name only the most common one. If you can't figure it out by yourself, feel free to mail me with a complete history/case study and I'll be happy to make suggestions. Now, before you get scared (if you are reading this only out of curiosity), it is very rare. Coons are generally very fastidious and clean. |
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Minou has been diagnosed with FIP 6 years ago. According to the vet, she had 6 weeks to 3 months to live. Until today, there is no cure, no vaccination, no help. Isn't there? Don't buy it.
So much is still unknown about this disease, and much depends on the individual cat. In Minou's case, it appears that she is only a carrier, similar to being HIV positive, but not having AIDS yet, so she lives on. My vet knows of cats who were positive, yet a year later tested negative and could be vaccinated. There is just no way to tell what will happen. Since it is thought that carriers can infect other cats, you can imagine the hectic flurry of activity shifting my other cats around towards friends houses upon this first discovery. By now, we have all settle back into normal mode. All my other cats have been tested for FIP and FIV, and come back negative. Being blessed with an advanturous (for our country) vet, we have -successfully- vaccinated them, and they returned home. From time to time, a bloodtest is run (as well as for the litters of kittens) to ensure their health. JUST in case. Their test results remain clear. NOT ONE kitten has ever been anything less then healthy as an ox. Nor have my other cats ever contracted this 'deadly' desease. (Kittens are protected by the contents in their mother's milk until a week or so after they stop nursing, but I needed to be sure, so we continued to test them. I thought of stopping, but with the end of this line the Silkens would cease to exist. I want these cats around for the next 50 years, to grow old with me... I just could not bring myself to have my beautiful Tom fixed. He isn't broken, and wouldn't understand). The impossible IS possible with this crazy illness. You have to be extremely careful. First of all, vaccinate, no matter what the general opinion. Two vets will give you three opinions. Think safety. Half a chance is better then none at all (there are different types of FIP out there, not all are covered by the vaccine). Second, beware of strays. I now know that this illness can be transferred by body fluids, and most vets say the virus cannot be killed. That means any stray you pet, or who crosses your garden will share his germs for you to carry home if he is infected. Sneezing is enough. Licking at the grass leaves body fluid. Licking his fur which you stroke will leave residue. On your hands, on your shoes. A study here in Germany has shown that 6 out of 10 dead strays proved positive for FIP. It is NOT a desease that happens to other peoples cats! Help them, find them homes, get them off the streets. Have them checked for health and vaccinate them if you can't keep them inside, but DON'T pet them or allow them on your property if your own cats are allowed outside until you are sure they are healthy. You may involuntarily cause the death of a loved one. Footnote, 2003: Minou lived on to be 18 years old, at which time we had a routine of weekly IV's (done at home) to battle kidney failure. She was a fighter, and wanted to live, so she did, and let us do whatever we deemed was needed without complaint. 10 years after she was destined to die she let me know she was tired, and felt she had fought long enough. There was a new kitten in the house she felt could take over as 'familiar'. She stopped eating, and I spent the last few days with her in my arms, cuddling, talking about the past, about our adventures, thanking her for so bravely staying with me all the years I needed her company so badly. She peacefully slept into summerlands within a few days. Infected cats shed coronavirus in their saliva and feces. Most cats become infected by inhaling or ingesting the virus, either by direct contact with an infected cat, or by contact with virus-contaminated surfaces like clothing, bedding, feeding bowls, or toys. Although the virus can survive for a number of weeks in the environment, it is rapidly inactivated by most household detergents and disinfectants. An inexpensive and effective disinfectant is one part of household bleach in thirty-two parts of water (4 ounces of bleach per gallon of water). Is FIP related to feline leukemia? FIP and feline leukemia are caused by different viruses. Some cats that have FIP may also be infected by the feline leukemia virus, but the diseases are two separate entities. What are the signs of FIP? Initial exposure to the FIP virus usually results in no obvious clinical disease, although some cats may experience a mild upper respiratory disease that is characterized by sneezing, watery eyes, and watery nasal discharge. Some cats may experience a mild intestinal disease. Most cats that undergo the primary infection completely recover, although some of them may become virus carriers. Only a small percentage of exposed cats develop the lethal disease: weeks, months, or perhaps years after primary infection. The onset of clinical signs of lethal FIP may be sudden (especially in kittens), or the signs may gradually increase in severity over a period of weeks. Many cats have nonspecific signs such as intermittent inappetence, depression, rough hair coat, weight loss, and fever. The major forms of lethal FIP are effusive (wet) FIP, noneffusive (dry) FIP, and combinations of both. The most characteristic sign of effusive FIP is the accumulation of fluid within the abdomen and/or chest. When fluid accumulation becomes excessive, it may become difficult for the cat to breathe normally. The onset of noneffusive FIP is usually slower. Fluid accumulation is minimal, although weight loss, depression, anemia, and fever are almost always present. Signs of kidney failure (increased water consumption and urination), liver failure (jaundice), pancreatic disease (vomiting, diarrhea, diabetes), neurologic disease (loss of balance, behavioral changes, paralysis, seizures), enteritis (vomiting, diarrhea), or eye disease (inflammation, blindness) may be seen in various combinations. FIP is often a difficult disease to diagnose because each cat can display different signs that are similar to those of many other diseases. What are the chances my cat will get FIP in its lifetime? Young cats (less than two years of age), older cats (over ten years old), cats in poor physical condition, and cats undergoing concurrent infections or stress are more susceptible to FIP. It is a relatively uncommon disease in the general cat population, probably affecting fewer than one percent of the cats brought to a veterinarian's office for treatment. In multiple-cat populations such as some shelters and catteries the disease rate can be much higher, affecting up to 10 to 20 percent of the susceptible population over a period of several months. Are there any laboratory tests that can detect the FIP virus? The KELA, ELISA, IFA, and virus-neutralization tests detect the presence of coronavirus antibodies in a cat. A positive test result only means the cat has had a prior exposure to a coronavirus -- not necessarily one that causes FIP -- and has developed antibodies against that virus. If the test is negative, it means the cat has not been exposed to a coronavirus. The number, or titer, that is reported is the highest serum dilution that still produced a positive reaction. Low titers indicate a small amount of coronavirus antibodies in the serum, while high titers indicate greater amounts of antibodies. A healthy cat with a high titer is not necessarily more likely to develop FIP or be a carrier of an FIP-causing coronavirus than a cat with a low titer. It also is not necessarily protected against future FIP virus infection. Recently, two new tests have been developed that can detect parts of the virus itself. The immunoperoxidase test can diagnose FIP more accurately than traditional histopathologic examination because it detects virus-infected cells in the tissue. A biopsy of affected tissue is necessary for evaluation. Another antigen test utilizes polymerase chain reaction (PCR) to detect viral genetic material in tissue or body fluid. Although this test shows promise, PCR is presently only capable of detecting coronaviruses in general, not necessarily those that cause FIP. Should I have an FIP test done on my cat? There are two primary situations where the determination of coronavirus-antibody titers can be useful to the cat owner or breeder and the veterinarian: (1) as a screening test, to determine the presence or absence of antibodies in a previously untested household and to detect potential virus carriers or shedders when introducing new cats into households or catteries that are negative for coronavirus antibodies; (2) as an aid (and nothing more than an aid) in the clinical diagnosis of a diseased cat that has signs suggestive of FIP. Why did I get two different test results from two different laboratories? Unfortunately, many laboratories use different antigens prepared in different ways, and their interpretation of the assay can differ. False results can occur from nonspecific reactions unless the tests are meticulously controlled. The test can be difficult to interpret, since it usually depends on a subjective decision made by the person reading the test. How is a positive diagnosis made? A presumptive diagnosis of FIP can usually be made on the basis of clinical signs, routine laboratory tests, and evaluation of abdominal or chest fluid. Some cases, however, present a diagnostic challenge, since the signs of illness are not distinct for FIP. In all cases, a tissue biopsy is the only way to absolutely confirm a diagnosis of FIP. Is there a cure for FIP? Currently, FIP is considered to be a routinely fatal disease once a positive diagnosis has been made. Unfortunately, no cure yet exists. The basic aim of therapy is to provide supportive care and to alleviate the self-destroying inflammatory response of the disease. Some treatments may induce short-term remissions in a small percentage of patients. A combination of corticosteroids, cytotoxic drugs, and antibiotics with maintenance of nutrient and fluid intake may be helpful in some cases. In the future, combining immune-modulating drugs with effective antiviral medications may prove to be beneficial for treatment of FIP. Can I protect my cat from getting FIP? In multiple cat environments, keeping cats as healthy as possible and minimizing exposure to infectious agents lessens the likelihood of cats' developing FIP. Preventing overcrowding, keeping cats current on vaccinations, providing proper nutrition and adequate sanitation, and eliminating feline leukemia virus infections can be helpful in reducing the incidence of FIP groups of cats. The first FIP vaccine (Primucell FIP by Pfizer Animal Health) was introduced in 1991. It is a temperature-sensitive, modified-live vaccine. The vaccine is licensed for intranasal vaccination of cats at 16 weeks of age, with boosters in 3 to 4 weeks, and then yearly. Once a cat is vaccinated, its serum may have a positive coronavirus antibody titer. This could be a problem for cattery owners who use serologic testing to maintain a coronavirus-free population. The vaccine appears to be safe, but various studies have yielded different estimates of vaccine efficacy. The role that Primucell FIP will ultimately play in protecting cats from FIP is not yet known; for the time being, discussions with your veterinarian should help you decide if your cat should be vaccinated. My cat has FIP. How long can it be expected to live? How can I make my cat comfortable during its last days? Once clinical signs appear, cats with the effusive (wet) form of FIP will live a few days to a few weeks, although some adult cats may linger for six to eight months. Cats with the dry form of FIP usually die within a few weeks, but survival for up to a year or more is possible. Providing good nursing care and feeding a balanced, highly nutritious diet will make your cat more comfortable in the terminal stages of the disease. Your veterinarian may prescribe medications to reduce the discomfort associated with the disease or provide more-specific supportive therapy. Can a person or a dog become infected with FIP? FIP has not been documented in any species other than those of the cat family. FIP is not known to constitute any health risk for human beings. However, FIP virus is similar to a common virus of dogs - canine coronavirus, that produces enteritis in dogs. What is the Cornell Feline Health Center doing to fight FIP? We have worked diligently for over 20 years to develop an effective vaccine as well as diagnostic tests that will be more useful in diagnosing FIP in sick cats and in identifying the FIP-virus-carrier state in healthy cats. We are also studying the disease process itself (i.e., how the virus replicates in the cat, and why the cells normally responsible for protection against infection do not destroy the virus). That work may lead to more-effective treatments for FIP. |
Prepared by the Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University, College of Veterinary Medicine, Ithaca, New York 14853-6401. The ultimate purpose of the center is to improve the health of cats by developing methods to prevent or cure feline diseases and by providing continuing education to veterinarians and cat owners. |
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2006 update: New studies indicate that most vaccines are valid for several years, and yearly vaccinations are not only useless, but dangerous. Once the kitten has the booster shot, and the second year update, it is not needed to re-vaccinate annually. A blood test can be done every three years to check titers, but 3 years are commonly assumed to be the safe period for most vaccine's validity.
What is the immune system? Why is it important? The immune system plays a pivotal role in maintaining your cat's health. One of the most important functions of this highly complex system of specialized cells and molecules is to protect cats from disease and infection caused by foreign invaders - viruses, bacteria, and a host of other microbes and parasites intent on assaulting the body and causing disease. What does vaccination accomplish? Vaccines are given to prepare the body's immune system against invasion by a particular disease-causing organism. Vaccines contain antigens which to the immune system "look" like the organism but don't, ideally, cause disease. When the vaccine is introduced by injection or some other means, the immune system responds by mounting a protective response. When the cat is subsequently exposed to the organism, the immune system is prepared and either prevents infection or reduces the severity of disease. Does my cat need every vaccine available? No. The choice of which vaccines your cat should receive is dependent on a number of factors including: 1) Your cat's risk of exposure to the disease-causing organism (in part dependent on the health of other cats to which yours is exposed, and the environment in which your cat lives) 2) The consequence of infection 3) The risk an infected cat poses to human health (e. g., rabies) 4) The protective ability of the vaccine 5) The frequency or severity of reactions the vaccine produces 6) The age and health status of your cat 7) Vaccine reactions your cat may have experienced in the past Your veterinarian will help guide you in deciding which vaccines are appropriate for your cat. The following vaccines are currently available: Feline Panleukopenia Virus Vaccine: Feline panleukopenia (also called feline distemper) is a highly contagious and deadly viral disease of cats. Feline panleukopenia virus is extremely hardy, is able to survive extremes of temperature and humidity for many months, and is resistant to most available disinfectants. Until recent years, panleukopenia was the most serious infectious disease of cats, claiming the lives of thousands every year. Thanks to the highly effective vaccines currently available, panleukopenia is now considered to be an uncommon disease. However, because of the serious nature of the disease and the continued presence of virus in the environment, vaccination is highly recommended for all cats. Feline Calicivirus/Herpesvirus Vaccine: Feline calicivirus and feline herpes virus type I are responsible for 80-90% of infectious feline upper respiratory tract diseases. Most cats are exposed to either or both of these viruses at some time in their lives. Once infected, many cats never completely rid themselves of virus. These "carrier" cats either continuously or intermittently shed the organisms for long periods of time -- perhaps for life -- and serve as a major source of infection to other cats. The currently available vaccines will minimize the severity of upper respiratory infections, although none will prevent disease in all situations. Vaccination is highly recommended for all cats. Rabies Virus Vaccine: Rabies is an increasing threat to cats. At the present time, the number of reported feline rabies cases in the United States far exceeds that of all other domestic animals. Rabies in cats is also a major public health concern. Because of the routinely fatal outcome of infection in cats, and the potential for human exposure, rabies vaccination is highly recommended for all cats; it is required by law in most areas of the country. Feline Leukemia Virus Vaccine: Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) is the leading viral killer of cats. The virus is spread from cat-to-cat through bite wounds, through casual contact with infected cats, and from an infected mother cat to her kittens. The individuals most at risk of infection are outdoor cats, indoor/outdoor cats, and cats exposed to such individuals. Cats living in households with FeLV-infected cats or with cats of unknown infection status are also at risk. Indoor-only cats with no exposure to potentially infected cats are extremely unlikely to become infected. FeLV vaccines are recommended for all cats at risk of exposure to the virus. Chlamydia, Feline Infectious Peritonitis, and Ringworm Vaccines: Vaccines are available for each of these disease-causing organisms, but their use is not routinely recommended for all cats. Your veterinarian will help guide you in deciding whether your cat should receive any of these vaccines. Why do kittens require a series of vaccinations? Kittens receive antibody from colostrum (the first milk the mother produces) that is ingested during the early hours after birth. Maternal antibody helps protect against infectious disease until the kitten's own immune system is more mature. Unfortunately, maternal antibody also interferes with a vaccine's ability to stimulate the kitten's immune system. To counteract this problem, veterinarians often administer a series of vaccines, usually beginning when the kitten is around six to eight weeks of age, and then repeating vaccination at three or four week intervals until maternal antibody has waned, usually at around twelve weeks of age. In some cases (e. g., rabies vaccines) the initial vaccine is not given until maternal antibody has disappeared. Does my adult cat need to be vaccinated every year? The answer depends upon the vaccine. Certain feline rabies vaccines provide protection for longer than one year, so vaccination with a triennially-approved rabies vaccine every three years (after the initial series is completed, and when consistent with local rabies vaccine requirements) is sufficient. Recent research has provided compelling evidence to suggest that panleukopenia/rhinotracheitis/calicivirus vaccines provide adequate protection for several years, so in response, many veterinarians are now recommending that this vaccine be "boosted" at three year intervals as well. Unfortunately, far less is known about the duration of protection provided by other vaccines. Until that information is known, annual vaccination with those products is a reasonable course of action. Are vaccines dangerous? Not usually. Unfortunately, a perfect, risk-free vaccine does not exist. Without question, vaccines have saved countless lives, and they continue to be indispensable weapons in the battle against feline infectious disease. But as with any medical procedure, there is a small chance that reactions may develop as a result of vaccination. In most cases, the risks associated with vaccination are much smaller than the risks of disease if vaccines were not given. But to minimize the risk, before your cat is vaccinated, please inform your veterinarian of any problems your cat is experiencing or any medication your cat is receiving. Following is a brief list of reactions that may occur after vaccination. If your cat has had any reaction in the past as a result of vaccination, be sure to inform your veterinarian before your cat is vaccinated again. Mild reactions The following reactions are fairly common, usually start within hours to several days after vaccination, and last no more than several days: - discomfort at the site where the vaccine was given - mild fever - diminished appetite and activity - sneezing at about four to seven days after administration of an intranasal vaccine Development of a small, firm, non-painful swelling under the skin at the site where the vaccine was given. The swelling usually goes away after several weeks, but if you notice such a swelling, you should contact your veterinarian. Serious reactions These reactions occur very rarely: - a serious and potentially life-threatening allergic reaction within several minutes to an hour after vaccination - a kind of tumor called a sarcoma developing at the vaccine site several weeks, months, or even longer following vaccination What should I do if I think my cat is experiencing a problem as a result of vaccination? By all means, consult with your veterinarian. Even though vaccine-related disease is uncommon, the consequences can be serious. Your veterinarian is the individual most qualified to advise you if an untoward event does occur. To vaccinate or not to vaccinate? The decision to vaccinate your cat should be based on a thorough understanding of the benefits -- and the risks -- of the procedure. For this reason, it is extremely important that you discuss the procedure with your veterinarian. He or she will be more than willing to answer any questions you may have, and will help you make the right vaccine choices for your cat. |
Prepared by the American Association of Feline Practitioners and the Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University |
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As if FIP wasn't enough, Minou's kidneys and liver gave up at age 14. I am not ready to let her go, and since she is in no pain and enjoys life, apart from a special protein reduced diet, she is receiving shots (to jumpstart the kidneys) at least once a week, and an IV every other day (to help flush the poison out). I cook a special diet for her, as a special treat. Additionally I give her a tiny pill, 2-3 times a day, of homeopatic common club moss. This herb is a miracle cure, and catapulted her back into reality when she took a tumble for the worse. Email me if you want details. (For the German readers: Baerlapp Streukuegelchen. Gibts in der Apotheke.) Science Diet promotes a line of catfood for kidney failure (labeled KD). It is available through your vet or in special health food stores. That is the best and easiest choice to keep your kitty alive. But food alone might not be enough. Don't give up. It is easier then it sounds to give kitty shots and IV's. They get it right under the skin, not in an artery, so unless you have 2 left hands you can learn. My vet was great, and let me watch and explained, and eventually taught me how to do it myself. |