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Tips and lessons learned

• Be sure you have a micrometer and a dial indicator with a magnetic base to allow you to measure sideplay, backlash, and shim thickness. You will need them.
• If you are changing the pinion and/or the pinion bearings, you will need a bearing separator, and either a puller with very long bolts, or access to a hydraulic press (latter recommended).
• For removing the carrier bearings, don't use the splitter style puller like they show in the service manual. It can't get in under the center bearing race, and applies pressure on the roller cage, which deforms it and ruins the bearing. I used a K-D #2294 puller that I found at NAPA after some minor grinding, the puller will fit into the two indentations in the carrier and allows the pulling force to be applied to the center race, where it should be. You also need something to place on the end if the carrier for the puller to push against. I used a round cutout of 1/2" plate steel.
• When setting pinion bearing preload, I added extra shims, then tightened the pinion on as tight as my impact wrench would go (I know it won't go to the torque value listed in the manual). Then I measured the endplay in the pinion using the dial indicator. Take it apart and subtract the endplay value, and an additional 0.005" for bearing preload (new bearings) and put it back together and re-check the preload. I had an inch pound torque driver, but other methods can be used, including a spring scale.
• Have patience when trying to get the backlash and pattern set properly. Remember, you don't want to be in here anytime soon, so take your time and do it right the first time.

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