Backpacking with your dog

Packing with a canine companion can be a wonderful experience and an excellent opportunity to get away from the routines and scenes of daily life. Most dogs love the opportunity to get out and enjoy the sights and scents of the trail. Owners often find that they enjoy the outing even more as they see the hike from a canine perspective. With their keener senses, dogs can "point out" interesting features or animals that their people might otherwise overlook.

From the human perspective, most people that can go hiking without a dog can go hiking with one. The additional constraints are that you must be:

Know your dog - Be aware of what situations may make him act strangely or provoke an aggressive or defensive reaction. Then prevent these situations or, if unavoidable, be prepared to deal appropriately with them. You should never take a dog out on the trail if you feel there is any chance of someone being injured by him.

From the canine perspective, if the dog is healthy, fit and well behaved around other people (both adults and children) and animals, she can usually accompany the owner(s) on their outings.

Camping is a relaxing time - fellow campers may have just finished a long day of hiking or driving. While a campsite may be lively during the day, once night falls, it's time to settle down. Your dog will need to understand when playtime is over and how to be quiet - no barking! If you dog has never been to dog school, ENROLL IMMEDIATELY.

Of course, for both humans and dogs, a visit to the doctor to evaluate general health is a good idea before starting or increasing physical demands. If you choose to have your canine carry a pack, you should be confident they are in good health and structurally sound. Consider having your dog's hips X-rayed in order to check for hip dysplasia before asking him to carry a full pack over long distances. Dogs, like people, need to gradually build up strength and endurance.

Strong dogs should be able to carry up to 25% of their body weight. Be sure to carry enough water for your dog, especially in hot weather.

Equipment needed -

Collar and leash -

You'll need a collar with identification and a leash. Whenever Keila goes away from home, I make sure that she has her rabies, dog license, and identification tags up to date and attached to her collar. Your dog's ID-tag should have your name, FULL address, telephone number, and your dog's name imprinted on it. If your rabies tag does not have it, your vets phone number should also be on the ID-tag.

Be certain before setting out that the leash, snap, collar, and buckle are in good condition and will not break if the dog suddenly lunges after rabbits, squirrels, and the like. Some people like to use retractable-type leashes (e.g. Flexi) to give their dogs more freedom. I've found that they more easily tangle around bushes or other people. In fact, my wife bears a scar from when Keila ran from behind after a rabbit on our nightly walk. Before I could even think of dropping the leash, the damage had been done - a rope burn on the back of one thigh, and plenty of immediate pain.

Pack -

I selected a nice red-colored pack for Keila. Should she get away from me for some reason, the red pad will (hopefully) identify her as a domestic animal - a valid concern during Michigan's hunting season. It also makes her easier to spot in a variety of terrain. Keila's pack is also equipped with 3M Scotchlite ™ reflective trim which just provides added visibility to night-time traffic - Keila is black so she needs all the help she can get.

Harness (for the seatbelt) -

You may be a safe driver, but what about the guy next to you? Not only can a sudden change of speed send your dog all over the inside of the car, but driving on poor or winding roads can also cause your dog to be knocked around, or worse. You should always strap your dog into a dog body harness, and then run a seatbelt through the harness. Your dog will be comfortable, and still have the ability to sit or lay down - your dog will lose the ability to be thrown all over the place.

Booties -

Depending on the type of terrain, the weight of the pack, and the dog's tendency to tear her footpads, you might wish to consider buying some booties to protect your dog's feet. Not only do they protect your dog's feet from sharp objects, they also protect from insects such as fire ants.

Booties slide on like a short sock, and are held in place with Velcro that wraps around the dogs leg just above the foot. You have to experiment to find out how tight to make the Velcro. Keep an eye out for lost booties until you have the right knack for putting them on, especially after a scramble.

Booties can also be included in your doggie first aid kit in case of a cut or bruise. Worn in the tent, they will protect your floor from being punctured by your dog's nails or rough pads.

Muzzle -

If your dog is a dog-aggressive dog, you may want to outfit him with a muzzle. Muzzles still allow your dog to open its mouth, but only enough to drink or have a dog treat. If you are going to go the muzzle route, you get your dog into the habit of wearing a muzzle whenever you put him on a leash. This way, your dog will associate the muzzle with going for a walk.

What pack should I buy -

Before buying any type of pack, make sure that your dog is healthy and fully mature. Checked your plans with your veterinarian. Without consulting your vet, there could be any number of issues, ranging from respiratory to hip-related problems, which are aggravated by the pack. There is a risk of doing structural damage by putting an increased load on developing bones.

Also make sure that your vet is well aware of the amount of weight that you are planning on having your dog carry, and the terrain that you will be hiking in.

Your vet may also recommend additional vaccinations and precautions based on where you are going - Some areas carry additional health risks. Examples include: heartworm medication, lyme shot, and flea and tick control.

As for pack recommendations, I picked up a Wolf Packs Banzai™ dog pack for Keila. It's one of the pricier options on the market, but customer service is second to none - not only do you have a lifetime warrantee, but they will adjust strap lengths and do other custom work to their packs upon request. The packs are hand made. The owners of the company are avid hikers and yes, they do take their dogs out on the trail with them.

If you've even seen one of the packs up close, you know that the materials used are the same high-end materials and components found on high-end backpacks for people. As for durability, just read through the customer comments on the Wolf Packs web site.

Hopefully, there is a dealer in your area so that you can go and fit your dog personally. If not, the fitting chart gives you a pretty good idea of which pack size is correct for your dog. If your dog is between sizes, or you still have questions, just send the folks at Wolf Packs an e-mail and take advantage of that great customer service I mentioned.

If you want to check other dog packs that are on the market, I offer the following links. Please note that I've tried to offer a wide range in terms of pack pricing. Personally, I don't like the Caribou and Granite Gear packs because they lack a solid piece of fabric over your dogs back - instead, they have either mesh or exposed straps. With these design, I would be concerned that a dog running through the "bush" could get a small branch lodged under the mesh or straps, causing severe injury.

Wolf Packs
Wenaha Explorer II (used REI site, as I couldn't find a manufacturer page)
Ruff Wear
nordkyn
Mountainsmith
Caribou Woofers Dog Pack
Kelty Dog Packs
Dr. Foster & Smith

Fitting your dog's pack -

A dog pack should be large enough to carry the proper load. It should allow plenty of ground clearance and let the dog lay down, even when fully loaded. Panniers should permit the dog's elbows to move normally. Straps should be very snug, but loose enough to insert a finger beneath. In the beginning check strap fit when your dog is standing, sitting, lying down and after water breaks. Straps don't carry weight; they only keep the pack from sliding around. Packs that move a lot are probably too loose or poorly balanced. Once properly adjusted you should rarely need to check.

Keep the panniers evenly weighted. Redistribute the load if you notice the pack riding to one side. Try to pack heavy things near the bottom and light stuff in the top area of each pannier. Make the sides equally "puffy".

Pack training tips -

If you're lucky, your dog, like Keila, will take to the pack immediately. It is important that your dog's initial experiences with the pack are positive. Be prepared to engage in one of your dog's favorite activities immediately after fitting the pack - go for a walk, play some fetch, go to the local park. The idea here is to get your dogs mind off of that weird thing strapped to its back. Remember to use lots of praise.

As soon as your dog regains interest in getting the pack off its back, step up the level of excitement. Try to get your dog interested in having FUN. If your dog remains persistent in removing the pack, take the pack off of him yourself - you don't want your dog getting into the habit of chewing on the pack. The more your dog can associate the pack with fun, the quicker it will accept, and even enjoy, wearing the pack.

Don't play around with actual weight in the pack until your dog is friends with the pack. Do not start with a heavy load. Rather, start with an evenly distributed load, like a 20 oz. bottle filled with water in each side. Go on short hikes. Long hours and heavy loads will make your dogs muscles sore, just like yours. Gradually build your dog's pack weight over the course of a few weeks. Again, its important to make sure your dog is enjoying the experience instead of feeling like a beast of burden.

As you start filling the pack more (volume, not weight), you may notice that your dog misjudges walking through doors, around trees, and even your legs, bumping them with the pack. Another problem is slightly misjudging jumps, falling short because of the additional weight. This is another good reason not to ask your dog to carry too much weight too quickly. These problems will get better with experience, although if you hike infrequently, there may be a brief re-adjustment necessary at the start of each hike.

Finally, make sure you are periodically checking your dog's paws for wear. Long hikes may call for "booties" and frequent water breaks.

Conditioning -

Just like people, dogs must be conditioned for any performance activity. If your dog is a couch potato, don't expect her to suddenly be able to carry a full pack on a 10-mile hike. Some dogs will refuse to carry a pack that's too heavy, but others will injure themselves trying. Start off with short hikes and very little weight. Gradually increase the length of the hikes and the weight in the pack. Keep an eye on your dog's movement, be reasonable in your expectations, and ask your vet for advice when you're unsure.

What to pack -

Unbreakable things are best. Don't put anything in the dog's pack that you cannot afford to lose (e.g. car keys). Items that should not get wet are also a poor choice.

As I would rather not carry my dog's essentials, I start by having Keila pack her own collapsible food and water bowls, food (sealed in Ziplocs), comb, and 20 oz. plastic pop bottles filled with fresh water. As far as toys go, I'll squeeze a Nylabone and maybe a tennis ball into Keila's pack, but no more as the hike and all of the associated sniffing are the focus of her trips. After a solid day, she's pretty beat. Depending on the size of your dog's pack, you may be able to fit some of your essentials in there too - a first aid kit [human and canine] and your camp stove inside of cooking pots are good examples. Items that might be damaged by dampness should always be stored inside two zip-loc plastic bags. Other ideas include maps & guidebooks, toilet paper, extra clothing... you get the idea. Almost anything goes.

It's also a good idea to put a towel into your dogs sleeping area at home a week before you trip. Then pack this towel, and let your dog sleep on it in camp - this will give your dog some additional security and comfort. With all the things that your dog can get into when on the trail, it's always a good idea to have an extra towel around anyway.

Another must is to pack both sides with roughly equal weight and volume. Failure to do this will result in, at best, a dog that's off-balance, and at worst, one side of the pack flipping over to the other, or the whole pack sliding over to one side.

Pack Care -

Hand wash your dog's pack in warm, soapy, water. Nylon fabrics do not like heat. When finished cleaning the pack, hang and let air-dry.

Trail Etiquette -

Simply put, dogs are not welcome in many outdoor areas. National Parks have very strict restrictions against dogs in the "backcountry" and, in some parks, dogs are not allowed entry at all, even crated - this includes National Monuments, Lakeshores, and other NPS facilities. Public beaches and coastal areas are other examples where there are strict regulations in place that limit your dogs access.

While the main reasons for animal access regulations stem from public safety and health concerns, and the preservation of natural resources and delicate ecosystems, another reason is that of lazy, undisciplined, and irresponsible dog owners.

Unfortunately, this last reason is the cause for "fido" not being allowed in areas where you would expect would not have such regulations. Those of us who do restrain our pets and clean up after them often go unnoticed for the simple fact that we did such a good job of being responsible - people tend to remember dog encounters that they were aware of, such as uncontrolled dogs jumping on people, barking all night, and stealing food from the neighboring picnic table - stepping in dog poop doesn't help either. While all of these examples are easily prevented, they happen with more frequency than we would care to admit.

Keep in mind that even if you are obeying the rules, others may not. Other dogs, some of which may be agressive, may accost you and your dog.

We all want to keep as many trails open to dogs as possible. Be sure to promote a positive image while you are enjoying your favorite outdoor activities with you dog. When in public areas with your dog, observe the following basic rules of conduct:

Other Dogs on the Trail -

As mentioned above, not all dog owners are responsible with respect to their pet's behavior on the trail. Some will even allow aggressive dogs off-leash. Encounters with these dogs can result in a fight between your animal and theirs, even if your dog is leashed, so be prepared to prevent this occurence.

Always carry a can of Halt!, a mild pepper-spray similar to that which many local letter-carriers have on their belts. It can be bought for under $10.00 in many cycling stores, and is legal and definitely works. While no one wants to hurt the dogs (the owners are the ones that really need the correction), the safety of you and your dog must come first. Plus, it's more humane to stop a fight before it starts. Halt! has no lasting effects and can be washed out of the dog's eyes or whatever with water. It has a range of only some 15' or so, and if there's a wind blowing, you or your dog can get a "back-blast" from it if you're not careful.

Some general things to think about before taking your dog into the wilderness -

Food and Water -

Clean drinking water is a must for both you and your dog. Although natural water sources may be plentiful on your hike, the water may be contaminated with giardia (a protozoan parasite), or harmful bacteria or chemicals. In areas where giardia is a problem you should not allow your dog to drink from steams or lakes - Call the nearest park ranger station to find out the conditions of water in the area that you will be in. Just like with your own water, you should treat your dog's water using a filter or iodine tablets. Remember, your dog is most likely not accustomed to drinking water from sources other than your tap. Just as you would most likely get sick by drinking water that the 'locals' drink in foreign lands such as Mexico and India, your dog can get sick by drinking water that other animals are accustomed to.

Without frequent drinks, your dog could encounter heat exhaustion, or heat stroke - this can happen even in cold weather.

Watch your dog for signs of heat exhaustion or stroke, especially unusually rapid panting, and/or a bright red tongue or mucous membranes. The dog's primary mechanism for cooling off is through panting. Since this cooling process uses evaporation the dog will require more water when he is panting heavily. I have read that the shorter-nosed breeds (e.g. Bulldogs and Pugs) may have a less efficient heat exchange rate, and should be watched especially closely.

If you determine that your dog is overheating, you should get her into the shade immediately. You should check with your vet for the best ways to cool down an overheated dog. Since I've never run into an extreme case, I've just kept my dog cool using the same approach they use for endurance riding in horses. I put cool water on her belly and groin area. The logic here is that you want to cool down areas where there is a large blood supply, and allow evaporation off the skin to provide heat exchange.

Antifreeze -

Whenever you are in parking areas with your dog, keep a keen eye out for puddles of antifreeze that your dog could get into. People who top off their antifreeze generally encounter some spillage. Also, overheating engines and leaking radiators or associated hoses can leave deadly puddles of antifreeze in parking lots. In the winter, this is especially a problem as temperatures are not high enough to quickly dry out or evaporate the chemical. It takes less than a teaspoon to kill your dog. Even if there are no immediate signs of problems, if you suspect your dog has gotten into some antifreeze, TAKE HIM TO THE VET IMMEDIATELY.

Packing a Canine First Aid Kit -

Before reading further, know that I am NOT a veterinarian. The contents of my first aid kit were assembled using common sense and my experiences with my own dogs. Dosage information listed here comes from the Merck Manual or from my own veterinarian. PLEASE consult your own vet about appropriate uses and doses before giving your dog any of the medications contained within this document. Also, be sure to become familiar with the side effects and adverse reactions before using any of these medications - while they are considered fairly safe and are not prescription medications, there may be some dogs that will react badly to some of these drugs.

TOXINS - NEVER EVER give Tylenol (toxic to liver) or ibuprofen (Nuprin, Motrin, Advil, etc.) to your dog. Ibuprofen is very toxic and fatal to dogs at low doses. Only aspirin is safe for dogs, and buffered aspirin or ascriptin is preferred to minimize stomach upset.

Remember first aid is just that - the "first" aid given as you get the patient to a doctor for proper medical attention - Your dog's health is too precious to play "gotta-save-money" guessing games with! Medicating your dog is very difficult and can be dangerous - a dog is not human; his or her system will often NOT react in the same way to medication as yours. Your dog's weight is also a tremendous factor when considering dosage. Except for in the most extreme cases, it is not advised to try to medicate you dog without strict guidance from a licensed veterinarian.

Your goal when giving a dog first aid should be stabilization - stop bleeding, prevent any further injuries, and calm your dog enough so that you can transport her to the vet as quickly as possible.

Assembling a canine first aid kit for home or travel use is fairly simple. In fact, it's pretty easy to assemble a kit that will serve both human and canine members of your family!

The first thing you need for a good first aid kit is a suitable container. I use a fishing tackle-type box. On the outside, with permanent marker, label the box "First Aid" on all sides - in an emergency someone else might have to locate and use this kit. Tape to the inside of the box lid, a card with the following information:

Things to put in the first aid kit:

Those supplies preceded by a '*' must be obtained from a veterinarian. All other supplies can be purchased, over the counter, at most any drug store. Several dog supply catalogs, such as Dr.s Foster & Smith, UPCO, and Omaha Vaccine, offer a variety of medical and first aid supplies.

Enclose your medical kit in a zip-loc bag to prevent the items from getting wet or dirty.

Also tape, to the inside of the box lid, a card with a list of common medications, their general dosages, and the specific dose for the weight of your dog. This way they are quickly and easily available and you don't have to be searching for a calculator or trying to recall from memory when your dog needs medication. For example:

Give liquid medications using an oral syringe tucked into the side of the dog's mouth, holding jaws closed - Poking straight down the throat risks getting liquid into the lungs.

If your dog has severe allergies to bee stings or other things that might be commonly encountered in places you take your dog, consider asking your vet about stocking your first aid kit with medication that might be needed for that sort of special emergency. Likewise, trackers and field trainers may want to consult their vet about equipping their first aid kits with specific supplies to deal with snakebites.

Be sure to clearly LABEL all medications and supplies with their name and expiration date. Be sure to replace medications that may have exceeded their recommended expiration date. Go through your kit at least once a year, replacing expired medications, replenishing used supplies, etc. I do this right before going on a trip, so I know the kit is up-dated and complete when I am traveling and away from close veterinary care.

For good canine first aid descriptions and instructions, refer to:

Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook by D.G. Carlson and J.M. Giffin
The Merck Veterinary Manual by C.M. Fraser et al. (editors)

Disclaimer -

Hiking and camping are potentially dangerous activities. The authors of this document are not instructors or authorities in any of the areas discussed within the text of the document, nor in veterinary science, or in the area of dog training in general. You are responsible for the health, welfare and actions of your canine companion. This document is the merely an attempt to pass on useful information to persons who are inexperienced at being in the outdoors with their dog. The information is gathered from personal experiences as well as items heard from others or found on the web. Not all the information has been verified firsthand - Some of the content in this document is strictly hearsay. You should always check with your veterinarian and/or other experts when you are beyond your own realm of expertise. The authors assume no responsibility for the use of the information contained within this document.

Note - A large percentage of this page is based on, in whole or in part, text taken from rec.pets.dogs: Canine Activities: Camping and Backpacking FAQ.
I'd like to thank Terri Watson for allowing me to make use of her document.

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