Please see my Disclaimer.
Welcome to my Breeding Basics. As of today, I don’t have all of the text written. What I do have written however, will have a hyperlink. I appreciate your feedback, and solicit it on this new text I have written.
Disclaimer: One of the few “givens” in the Budgerigar fancy is differing opinions. Typically each breeder finds success in just a little variation of the “proven method”, sometimes, a HUGE variation. I’m no different. I will however, try to give you as much proven information as I can prefacing my personal opinions with, “In my opinion...”, or “I believe...”. Enjoy! -- Jesse
P.S. I will continue to update and refine this information as things change, and they will... That’s one of the other “givens” of the hobby. :)
1. Housing for the Breeding Pair Before one can even begin to select the pair for breeding, preparations must be made. These preparations take the form of housing. As a general rule, you should ...
2. Bird Selection
3. The Breeding Process
The beginning of the breeding process starts with the
introduction of the cock and hen. Not surprisingly, there are two schools
of thought on how this should be done. The first being, placing the hen
into the breeding cage one to two weeks before the cock. This will break
any pair bond the hen may have had with another cock and, perhaps, foster
a loneliness during it’s “solitary confinement”. With these two things,
it is felt the pair will go to nest faster. The other school of thought
is to add the two into the breeding cage at the same time. This method
doesn’t allow for any territorial instincts to take hold, which could,
possibly, be a drawback of the first method. It is my opinion that either
method will work, and equally as well. If you’re as impatient as I am
however, you’ll opt for the latter just to see the two potential mates
in the same cage together.
Whichever method you choose for introduction,
you should expect to see the relationship between the two birds
progress. One of the first signs that the pair is bonding, will
be observed in them sitting near each other on the same perch.
It’s been my experience that this is very positive and a
prelude of good things to come. Once past this first hurdle,
expect to see some of the other courtship rituals such as the hen
begging for food, and the cock feeding her. This is one of the
most important courtship rituals as during the hen’s stay in
the nest box, she’ll typically rely on the cock for the majority
of her feeding. Look (or rather listen!) for a high pitched
tweeting coming from the hen, who will also be begging with her
mouth open. The cock will bob his head up and down one or two
times, then the two will lock beaks as he passes the regurgitated
food to his mate. Within a few days the hen should begin to
spend more time in the nestbox. Initially it should begin with
“straightening” up the wood shavings. During this process, it’s
not unusual for the majority of the shavings to be evicted. Don’t
worry about replacing them, as they’re not required if the nestbox
is fitted with a concave bottom. In fact, the hen should create
a concave pocket out of the shavings in addition to the bottom
of the box. (This indentation inhibits the hen from sitting
too hard (or tightly) on the eggs and later the chicks, but more
on that later.) One additional thing to look for in the nestbox
is small down feathers (the color of the hen). Not all hens will
add their feathers, but for those that do, you can almost be
certain that they are preparing to lay. This time spent in the
nestbox should increase in frequency, and length of stay, until
you’ll rarely see her. When I see this behavior, I expect to
see eggs within a week. Don’t be concerned if you never actually
see the pair engage in mating, I’ve seen many an egg hatch from
pairs that “never actually mated”. ;)
You should expect to see eggs laid within two weeks for
a proven hen, and three weeks for a first time hen. When the first
egg is finally laid, you may observe a bit of dried blood staining
the egg. This shouldn’t be a big concern. As the hen passes the first
egg, it can cause a small amount of tearing as it passes through.
Ok Janet, take a deep breath, relax.....try to stop shaking. We CAN do this.
On English with English bands, I band at 7 days. I really don't know with
the smaller guys. But it is better to do it too soon and have it come off and
you have to put it back on, than to risk pulling the little guys toes off by
waiting too long
Now place your band and a toothpick in your work area. Place the band so that
it will be right side up when the budgie is standing (I hate trying to read
upside down bands). I always put the band on the right leg, my friend Charles
always bands the left. It really doesn't matter, whatever feels right to you.
Now, please warm your hands a bit so your baby is cozy. He will be doing some
kicking a screaming just to make you nervous. Lay him on his back in your
left hand (assuming you are right handed) and take is little foot in the
fingers of the hand that is holding him. Extend the 3 long toes (no you are
not hurting him, even is he is fussing up a storm) and place the band over
the toes and push on. The forth toe will be under the band and pressed
against the back of the leg (no, you are not breaking his toes or his leg,
take a deep breath, relax). Push up the band as far as you can. Then take the
toothpick and and insert it between the 4th toe (the one pushed back) and the
leg and pull it GENTLY under the band so that the band is moving freely on
the leg. Then give the little guy back to momma and wipe the sweat off your
brow. Don't forget to write down the band number and parents on your records.
Banding babies is like learning to put in or take out contacts. Seems so
impossible but after a while it takes seconds.
I'm dreading banding my first canaries. Those legs are so tiny compared to
budgies.
The preceeding is the property of Rose Lee Begley, please do
reproduce without the author's permission.
The Expert Information
Rose Lee Begley on Banding Budgerigars:
Return: