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Name, Geography and Natural History.
The origin of the name is unknown. In a decreet of locality, dated 1666, it is written Grissan, and was probably, at that time, so pronounced. The change of Grissan into Girvan, is somewhat similar to that of Striveling into Stirling. The greatest length of the parish from S.W. to N.E. is about 9 English miles; and it varies in breadth from 2 to 6 miles. About two-thirds of the southermost part of the parish is hilly. The hills never rise to a height, which, in Scotland, is considered as mountainous. They are, for the most part, green; and when they are heathy, the heath is short, and generally mixed with grass. Even in what may |
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be called the lowlands of the parish, situated on the sea-coast, and the banks of the Girvan, though there be a considerable proportion of flat ground, yet the surface presents, in general, a hilly appearance. A great variety is to be found in the soil; but that which is most prevalent, consists of a dry light mould, on a sandy, or gravelly bottom. In the low part of the parish, the air is remarkably dry and mild; and in the light lands, vegetation begins 2 or 3 weeks earlier than in the country in general. In the high grounds, the air being much colder, and more moist, vegetation of every kind is much more backward. It is generally thought there is abundance of coal in the low part of the parish; but no attempts to discover it have been yet made. The inhabitants are plentifully supplied from the coal-works in the parish of Dailly. There is a great quantity of limestone in the high part of the parish: but owing to its distance from coal, the want of roads, or the unfitness of the neighbouring grounds for agriculture, it has hitherto been but little used. The lowlands are well supplied from an extensive lime-work in the neighbourhood. Little or no free-stone has, as yet, been discovered in the parish. Pudding-stone, and a kind of rotten rock, abound almost every where. In some places the grey and blue whin-stone is found. In one spot a small quantity of gypsum, or plaster-stone; and, in another, a considerable bed of shell-marl have been discovered. The houses are all built of whin-stone, gathered partly from the land, but chiefly from the sea-beach. The sea-coast extends upwards of 8 miles along the W. side of this parish. Above a third part of the shore is bold and rocky; and, when flat, the beach is very generally covered with large whin-stones. In some parts a considerable quantity of sea-weed is occasionally left by the tide; and is used in manuring the neighbouring lands. A little kelp is made |
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once in 3 years. A quantity of salmon is annually caught at the mouth of the Girvan *. Population -- According to Dr. Webster's report, the number of souls in 1755 was 1 103. Of the ancient state of population in the parish, no certain information can be obtained. No regular register of deaths and marriages was kept prior to August 1783, when the tax on registers was imposed. For about 5 years after that period, this register was accurately kept †. A register of births has been preserved since the latter end of the year 1733. From an attention to this, so far as it goes, some probable conjecture concerning the state of population at different periods may be formed; and a comparative view of the former and present situation of the parish in this respect may be taken. For this purpose, there is annexed a table of births for 10 years succeeding December 1733 ; and another for 10 years prior to January 1791 to which is added a table of deaths and in marriages for 5 years succeeding December 1783.
* They are most in season in the month of June. When sold on the spot, they
bring from 2 d. to 3 d. the lb. English. But the greater part is carried by land to Kilmarnock
or Glasgow. It is believed that abundance of cod, ling, haddock, &c. is also to be found on
this coast; but the inhabitants of this parish have never much availed themselves of their
advantage in this respect.
† As soon as it was generally known that the act imposing
a tax on registers, did not oblige any person to keep a register; and that the only penalty
for neglecting to pay the tax, was the non-entry of the name in the register the consequence
in this parish has been, that the register of deaths has, for some time, been totally given up,
and those of births and marriages are not so accurate as they should be.
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| Males | Fem | Total | Males | Fem | Total | ||||
| Males | Fem | Total | |||||||
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* A great number of children died this year of the small-pox.
All of them had the disease in the natural way, There is still, in this
parish, a considerable prejudice against inoculation. † From the foregoing tables, it appears, that the annual
average of births for 10 years, preceding January 1744, was 30.8. This,
if multiplied by 26, gives 800, as the average number of inhabitants during
that period. If multiplied by 28, the number must be stated at 862; and,
if by 29, at 893. From the register of births, it is found, that the annual
average for 5 years, preceding 1756, was 40. This, when multiplied by 26,
gives only 1040, as the number about the period of Dr. Webster's reports
: but, when multiplied by 28, the number at that period is brought to 1120.
The annual average of births, for 5 years prior to 1791, was 58
2-5ths It is necessary this should be multiplied by 29, before the populationcan,
in this way, be brought nearly to correspond with what it was in 1791.
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| 232 | ||||||
From an accurate list taken in the year 1791, it appears that the total number of souls was then 1725: - Of which there were, |
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| Males, | 849 | Unmarried above 20 | 312 | |||
| Females, | 876 | In the town of Girvan, | 1012 | |||
| Under 20 years of age, | 701 | In the town of Girvan, | 713 | |||
| Above 20 years of age, | 1024 | Born out of Scotland, chiefly in Ireland | 63 | |||
| Married and widows, | 712 | |||||
| Unmarried | 1013 | |||||
According to their different occupations, the inhabitant may be distributed as follows: |
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| Handicraftsmen, including 33 apprentices, | 203 | Day labourers, | 49 | |||
| Servants, | 153 | Surgeons and apothecaries | 3 | |||
| Seamen | 22 | Students at the University, | 2 | |||
| Shopkeepers, | 9 | Minister of the Establishment, | 1 | |||
| Licensed inn and tavern keepers, | 8 | Preacher of ditto, | 1 | |||
| Farmers, | 78 | |||||
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consisted of about 14 houses only; and probably contained not many more than 100 souls. It now contains upwards of 1000. For this great increase various causes may he assigned. About 30 years ago, a considerable herring fishing took place at the mouth of the river very near the town. This fishing continued for 2 or 3 years. By the coneourse of people it drew together, and by the wealth it produced, a sudden and considerable extension of the town was occasioned. The throwing of a number of small farms together, which, at one period, was frequently practised in this country, with the almost total exclusion of cottagers from the farms, obliged a number of families to take up their residence in the towns and villages. The practice of smuggling, too, which, for a number of years, was carried on to a considerable extent on this coast, contributed, in no small degree, to the increase of the town of Girvan. Productions, &c.- The number of trees is very small. There is scarcely any natural wood better than brush-wood. A few trees have been planted in the low part of the parish, and in sheltered situations have grown tolerably well. It is believed, that on many. parts of the high grounds, trees might be reared with success and advantage. All the low part of the parish is capable of bearing grain; and, with the exception of a few enclosures near the shore, has been chiefly employed for that purpose. Considerable advances have been made, within these 30 years, In the improvement of agriculture. The low lands have been almost wholly enclosed. By the proper use of lime, marl, and sea-weed, together with a more regular rotation of crops, the produce, both in quantity and quality, has been, to a great degree increased. Oats, barley, bear, pease, beans, and potatoes, are the only kinds of crops commonly raised. A small quantity of wheat and rye is occasionally |
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sown ; but the former is thought an uncertain crop, and
the latter is found profitable only when the soil is extremely light and sandy. On
one farm, several acres of turnips are annually raised with good success. The kind
of plough most commonly used, is one with at' English mould-board,. and a Scotch
sock. Even in the hilly part of the parish, they have begun to cultivate such spots of
land as are capable of it. For the most part, lime is used as their manure. In some
places the surface is pared and burnt, and the ground manured with the ashes. In
general, however, the disadvantages of the climate, together with the want of shelter
and enclosures, render the crops, in this part of the parish), both scanty and precarious.
The high grounds are, therefore, chiefly employed in the pasture of cattle and sheep.
The greater part of them is indeed capable of being used in no other way. There are
about 1700 head of cattle In the parish. Though, occasionally, there may be single
instances of their rising to a great size *, yet the cattle, in general, are rather small.
In some parts of the parish they are completely fatted; but the bulk of them are sold
for the purpose of be-ing driven to England. In the low pasture grounds, the grass
is remarkably rich. A single acre is sometimes more than sufficient to fatten an ox or
cow of moderate size. There are about 214 scores of sheep. Except a very few of
the mixed breed between Scotch and English, they are all of the small black-faced
kind common in this country. Attention is paid by almost all the farmers to the
improvement of the kind they already possess; but no attempts have been yet made
to introduce a different breed. * An ox bred by Mr. Kennedy of Dunute, on his farm in this parish, was killed when 6 years old ; the beef and taIlow of which, together, weighed 61 stone 8 pound, reckoning 14 pound English to the stone. |
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among 10 different heritors. One only or them resides. Mr. Hamilton of Bargeny, is proprietor of the town or Girvan, and of by far the greatest part of the country parish. There is a spot of ground among the hills, supposed to be above 30 acres in extent, which may be considered as a kind of common. It has never, in the memory of man, been claimed or possessed by any individual; but is pastured in common by the tenants or those proprietors who have land in its immediate neighbourhood. In consequence or the improvements in agriculture, the advance In the price or cattle and sheep, and the increase of the town of Girvan, the rent of land in this parish has, within these 40 years, been very considerably advanced. At present (1791) the rents of the whole may be estimated at about 3200L, and, when some old leases are out, they will amount to a good deal more. Its valued rent is 4621L 4s. 10d. Scots. With the exception of a few, whose leases are of an old date, the tenants pay their whole rent in money. In some instances, they are bound to lead coals to their landlords, or to pay a certain sum for this purpose. Antiquities - There are, in this parish, 5 of those small round enclosures on the tops of rising grounds, which are commonly called camps. Two of them are very near the sea-side, and none of them more than 1 miles from the coast. One of these is remarkable for having 2 ditches, the 1 parallel to the other, and each surrounding the hill on the top of which it is situated *. * A number of cairns were formerly to be seen in the parish ; several of them are now scarcely distinguishable, the stones being almost wholly removed. In one among the hills, which, about 7 years ago, was laid open, there was found a vessel somewhat like an urn, open at top, made of earthen ware, unglazed, and rudely ornamented. It will hold about two English pint:, and, when found, contained a small quantity of dust or ashes. It was enclosed in a kind of coffin, consisting of broad thin stones laid loosely together. |
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Ecclesiastical State, Stipend, Schools, Poor.--The inhabitants of this parish belong almost wholly to the Established Church. There are not more than 20 Seceders, and only 2 Roman Catholics. The King is patron. By the last decreet, given in the year 1666, the minister's stipend is fix-ed at 57 bolls 12¾ pecks of meal, paid at the rate of eight stone and an half the boll ; 31 bolls 8 pecks of bear; 1 boll 4 pecks of oats; with 369L. 4s. .8d. Scots, of money. He has also a manse and glebe, which may be valued at 12L. or 15L. There is one established schoolmaster, who resides in the town of Girvan. He has, at an average, about 50 scho-lars. Of these, 30 are taught English at the rate of 2s. a quarter; 16 are taught writing and arithmetic, at the rate of 2s. 6d.; and 4 are taught Latin at 3 s. These wages, and 100 L. Scots of salary, with his emoluments as session-clerk and precentor, render his place worth about 30 L. a-year. A number of private schools are also occasionally kept, both in the town and the distant parts of the parish. --The poor's funds of this parish are wholly under the management of the kirk-session. They arise from the interest of 165 L. of stock, from voluntary contributions, and from penalties received from those who subject themselves to the discipline of the church. From the accounts for 5 years preceding January 1791, it appears, that the sum of 41 L. Sterling has, at an average, been annually received; that during the same pe-riod, the sum of 38 L. has, at an average, been annually distributed ; and that in these years, the average number of In the town of Girvan, there is a whin-stone of a dark
sea-green colour, ova1-shaped, its circumference measuring 2 feet 4 inches,
by 2 feet 9 inches. Concerning this stone, tradition says, that in former
times, when a person got his foot on it, he could not be attached for debt.
From time immemorial, it has lain behind some houses, which, with their
yards, formerly belonged to the church. |
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those who were regularly on the poor's roll, amounted to 36, besides number of others to whom occasional assistance was given. It is to be observed that out of the above sum, received chiefly on account of the poor, between 2L. and 3 L. are annually given to the presbytery and session-clerks, the precentor, and kirk-officer. Town of Girvan; The town of Girvan is situated at the mouth of the river bearing that name. It is a post town and lies on the great road between Ayr and Port Patrick *. The town of Girvan possesses many advantages for trade and manufacture. In the neighbourhood of a plentiful corn country, with abundance of coal within 2 or 3 miles, and probably much nearer, it enjoys in sufficient quantity, all the necessaries of life. Standing very near the sea, and built on a dry sandy soil ; its situation is remarkably healthy. Its harbour, far from being now a bad one, is capable of much improvement. In its present natural state, the entrance into the harbour is, at high water, from 9 to 11 feet deep; and were a key to be built, which, it is said, might be done for 2000L. or 3000L., it would be rendered considerably deeper. * This town is a burgh of barony. A charter of erection
was originally granted to Thomas Boyd, Esq. proprietor of the lands of
Ballochtoul, on which the town is chiefly built. This charter was
afterward renewed by king William to Sir Archibald Muir of Thornton, in
the year 1696. The powers and privileges granted by it to the proprietor
of Ballochtoul, were regularly carried down, in all the subsequent charters
and investitures, from the Crown. These powers were, however, never
used; till, in consequence of the great increase of the town, Mr. Hamilton
of Bargeny, the present proprietor, thought of exer-cising them.
Accordingly, in the year 1785, the town of Girvan did, by his direction,
assume the form of a burgh of barony. It is governed by 2 bailies,
and a council of 10. The bailies are annually chosen by the council,
and the vacancies of the council are filled up by themselves. But
the superior has a negative upon both elections. The town, by its
charter, enjoys all the liberties and privileges belonging to other burghs
of the same kind. |
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The surge never rises here to any very great height; and so happily is the harbour situated, that vessels can get out to sea with a wind from almost any quarter, if it does not blow very hard. With such advantages, any kind of trade, and especially the coal. trade, might, with good prospect of success, be carried on. Hitherto, however, little or nothing has been done in this way. There is at present, no more than one vessel above 20 tons burden, belonging to this place, & trading to it. The rest are all small, open, or half-decked boats, used for running salt from Ireland, or freighting goods from one part of the coast to another. Nor, till very lately, was there any thing deserving the name of manufacture to be found in Girvan. The weaving of cotton-cloth has of late been introduced by the manufacturers of Glasgow. Upwards of 100 looms are now employed, and the business is extending every day. That a situation so advantageous for trade or manufactures should have been so long neglected, may appear surprising; but may perhaps be in some degree accounted for by observing, that Girvan is placed at a considerable distance from any great trading or manufacturing town; that no person bred to business, and at the same time possessing a good capital ever happened to settle here, or in the neighbourhood; and that habits of regular industry were probably prevented or destroyed by the practice of smuggling, to which the inhabitants were, for a long time, so much addicted. There is reason, however, to hope that if trade and manufactures continue to flourish in the country, in general, Girvan will, in a short time, acquire that share in them, to which, from its natural advantages, it appears to be entitled. |
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