Friday 28 July

We are on the ground floor, our window-facing straight into the bay, 25-30 metres away. Historic Saint Columba's Island is directly in sight, at the most 500 metres off shore. Beyond that, across the bay, the township of Portree. Beyond that, several layers of mountain with 'The Old Man of Storr' at the rear (highest peak).

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St. Columba's Island

St. Columba's Chapel Ruins

 10.30 PM yesterday the old man was still clearly visible but this morning even the island is just a vague shape through the mist. Our hostess assured us it was merely a 'heat haze' and would lift shortly. We attempted to walk around to the island, possible at low tide by going to the top of the bay and following the tide-line, then traversing the boggy soil, rocks, sea weed and puddles at the closest point.

I made it half way and then decided to sit and wait, as I had no spare dry shoes. Though I wasn't alone...a Kelpie joined me with his throwing stick and stone!

Russ eventually made it without mishap and took photos of the medieval chapel ruins and a plaque recording some amusing MacLeod history at the site in 1223.

After that, with the fog lifting, we set off at 10.30AM for Dunvegan Castle.

We had previously made contact with the Clan Chief who said he'd be happy to meet with us if he was available at that time. Along the way, clouds were dark and foreboding but out at Dunvegan it was warm and sunny.

Unfortunately, although we had left our names at the entrance hall, hours later we were told the Chief had gone out and had not been given our message. There were 2 visitor books at the entrance, one general and one for MacLeod descendants. We had bought our family history details, hoping to update our family line on the MacLeod genealogy Website but were frustrated that no one even seemed interested in helping us to find how where this could be done.

We did the 'self guided' tour of the Castle and studied the family portraits before finding a nice grassy courtyard in the sun where we sat to sketch and paint. I attempted the North Tower and turrets while Russ did a landscape incorporating the outer wall of the same tower and beyond. He then went on a garden walk while I finished my watercolour sketch. We visited the castle gift shop and bought souvenirs and books on the Castle history.

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Dunvegan Castle from the Bay

Dunvegan Castle across the Bay

 By this time we were starving and went looking for the restaurant which turned out to be just outside the castle grounds so we asked permission to return after we'd eaten. The young fellow on the gate wouldn't have noticed if we'd left with the silver tea service....he was so engrossed in his book. We were advised to visit the Estate office in hope of catching the chief...but then we discovered it was closed for the weekend.

We asked about contacting a MacLeod genealogist to leave papers on our family that we had bought with us (so as to update our family line on the MacLeod Ancestral Website). We were given the name of a lady (Marjorie MacInnes) who we then visited but it turned out although she was a genealogist, she had no connections with the MacLeod Clan at all! She did attempt to find some one for us but with no result.
She showed us a small publication relating to Talisker House where our ancestor had been born and suggested we ask there for the name and phone number of the author who might be able to help. Also she was able to tell us about an old farm a short distance away. The place where she was born and coincidently where the Major Donald had lived a short time as a child. We went there and took photos of the original section of the house and stables (the front part had been built on since).

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House at Claigan where Major Donald MacLeod lived as a child

Barn at back of house

 During the late afternoon it became quite cool and we encountered some rain on the return to Portree. As it happened the weather there had remained misty and damp all day so we were glad we'd gone to the other end of the island.

We processed 3 more rolls of film and although a lot were good we are generally disappointed with our camera as there seems to be a problem with automatic focusing and light control. Wherever 2 photos of the same subject are taken at different focus lengths there is an obvious anomaly in light and dark. One always looks like it was taken in day light....the other deep shade.

Being Friday night and looking for dinner after 7.30 PM was a bad combination. Rather than wait for up to an hour to be seated at restaurants we opted for fish and chips and returned to the garden of our B&B

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Mrs Margaret McKenzie

'Caberfeidh', 2 Heathfield

Portree, Isle of Skye Tel: 01478 612820