Monday July 31, 2000

Bright and sunny again. We breakfasted with a group of 4 from Switzerland who tried to pretend we weren't there and intensely conversed in a language we didn't understand. I asked several questions for which I received answers in English, one obviously more fluent than others, but they were not inclined to be friendly. I'm glad to say they were the absolute minority. Other breakfasts have been happy, friendly affairs with people from many countries sharing experiences and fun, no matter how little actual language was understood. The last few days we have shared breakfast with a German gentleman and his Swiss wife and learned a lot from them.

And what a pleasant surprise, driving through the tiny hamlet of Plockton we saw a sign indicating Internet and email at a learning centre attached to the high school.

We went to the woollen mill shop where Russ bought a MacLeod tartan cap and I bought a Skye tartan mohair scarf and Celtic pin

We last bought petrol at Skye 86.9 pence/litre. We are noticing little difference in price no matter the day of week or the apparent isolation of the district, which is good.
We drove north to Plockton (home of the TV series Hamish MacBeth). We stopped there to use the email facility at the 'Learning Centre' and also took photos of Duncraig Castle across the bay. After that, travelling around the coast we went drove the first natural forest area we'd seen since arriving in the UK. Ireland had small areas of plantation pine, no large wooded areas as we know them.

We bought lunch from a snack van, a lovely hot sausage roll. The power came by a lead from a cottage way down below, so far down and through the trees we could nee not one sign of it!

Russ couldn't resist stopping at Lochcarron to photograph the putting green, set up against the tombstones at the local church (the old fences had been removed in readiness for new).

 At one stage where the road wound tightly around the coast with a row of houses up against the road the washing lines were strung up below the road, on the high tide line.

Totally incredible views as we climbed the single lane mountainous roads but still passing intrepid hikers, cyclists and sheep.

We stopped at a lookout.. 'Bealach na ba', 2053 above sea level, 35 miles due west of 'Macleod's Tables' on Skye and only 15 miles from whence we had come... 6 hours before! We couldn't take photos looking back as true to the Gaelic meaning Skye was indeed 'the misty isle'.

 Right across the top layers of the mountains there are hundreds of tiny lakes, some just like garden ponds, some big enough for aquaculture tanks. Here they start off the baby salmon... to mimic the real life cycle of wild salmon who swim up the rivers 'til they find fresh water. Some of the tiny shallow lakes had small islands of bog cotton.

Traversing this high narrow mountain road made us understand the young Scottish woman we met yesterday. She recalled travelling to Applecross with her parents as a young child in summer holidays and screaming, "Daddy, don't fall over the mountains". There are 'passing spots' every few minutes where you stop to give way to oncoming vehicles...sheep tend to ignore the signs.... Scary stuff!

As we drove down we also saw long-haired highland cattle. Applecross is a tiny hamlet at the bottom with half a dozen houses and general store/post-office/off licence/fruit/vegetable/ butchery! Also a small roadside stall with a local crofter selling his wares. Weaving, woodcraft and his wife's knitting. Russ asked why so many sheep had long, unkempt fleece and there is so much old fleece lying in the fields and he said it costs £6 a head to shear them and the going price for fleece is just £4 each.

There are many large aquaculture tanks in the bays along here where they bring the young salmon from the highlands to mature. Also oyster leases.

As in Ireland and Wales there are many large dense velvety green growth areas right up and across the mountains. This is common old bracken fern, which is up to 4 feet high in places. The road follows the coast, sometimes at sea level, others quite high up.

 We passed through Callakill, a real ghost town with only 3 or 4 livable houses and the ruins of dozens of stone houses along the water edge. A very remote and beautiful area.

We saw a helicopter with a hanging load and soon after saw it land. We stopped to watch and saw it pick up large white bags, only to return for more after a few minutes. Naturally I had to get out and ask "What for?" It is an extensive reafforestation program. The bags contain fertiliser. An army of people (small dots on the mountainside), are spreading the fertiliser and planting native deciduous trees. The areas are high wire fenced to keep the deer out.

 Soon after at Fearnbeg we saw a marvellous place for sale and took pictures.

In Beinn Eighe national park the mountain tops look similar to Mt Errigal in Ireland and The Cuillins on Skye with great lime stone deposits across the tops.. giving the appearance of snow.

This afternoons news was focusing on the rising price of petrol, one woman ringing to say she drives her children 130 miles a week, just to and from the school bus stop! Another topic was the terrible season Scotland was having with MIDGES and research development into control methods.

We finally stopped for the night at Kinlochewe, Cromasaig B&B. A great mountain hideaway with great hosts. Our guest companions are a young German family. We dined at the pub.. Yes this tiny village has about a dozen houses...far flung.. a general store/post office and a pub. I had some of the wonderful local produce... baked salmon, which was the same price as the lamb hotpot!

And the midges....... WELL........ the air is thick with them, unbelievable. Once again, so far, they are leaving me alone, swarming but not biting. Maybe the Swansea sandflies have given me immunity!
Tonight I first tasted fresh raspberries from the fields.. delicious.