The Aero-Bird Thunderbird FAQ
Version 1.3, October 22, 1998
Compiled by Matt Naylor
Please e-mail with any Questions/Comments/Corrections/Additions.
Contents
0.1 Disclaimer
0.2 Introduction
0.3 Original Author's Notes:
1.0 Year by year 1983-1988
2.0 Statistics
2.1 Production Numbers
2.2 Aero-Bird Specifications
3.0 The Ford 302 (5.0L) Small Block V8
3.1 Types of Ford 302's
3.2 CFI Performance Recipe
3.3 SEFI Engines
3.4 V8 Specifications
4.0 The Ford 232 (3.8L) V6
4.1 3.8L V6 Performance Recipe
4.2 V6 Engine Specifications
5.0 The rest of the power train
5.1 Transmissions
5.2 Rears
6.0 Performance and other modifications
6.1 KYB Shocks
6.2 H.O. Upper intake manifold
6.3 Tips from William O. Mullen
6.4 Mustang Anti-Roll Bars
6.5 Air Silencer Removal
6.6 Dual Exhaust Install
7.0 Common Repairs
7.1 Windshield wipers won't retract
8.0 Sources
9.0 Special Thanks To...
0.1 Disclaimer
Note: this FAQ is intended for recreational/informational use only. The Author disclaims any
liability on their part including damage to persons or property which may result from improper
use of this information. Read at your own risk. Please see the listing of sources at the bottom of
this document for more information.
0.2 Introduction To the Aero-Bird
Aero-Bird is the nickname given to the 1983-1988 generation of Ford Thunderbirds. This makes up the 10th generation of T-birds in their first 42 years of history. Designed under the supervision of Jack Ternack, also responsible for the '65 Mustang fastback, and the original '86 Taurus, the Aero-Birds were an instant success, saving the Thunderbird from it's decline during the Econo-Bird era (1980-1982). With the addition of the Turbo Coupe to the lineup the Sports-Thunderbird was reborn after a 28 year hiatus.
Please note that during the years 1983-1988 the Thunderbird and Mercury Cougar were
essentially identical cars. The main difference being the formal roof line on the cougar, and
obviously the badges. Engine/equipment choices also varied slightly. For more info on the
Cougar, as well as LOTS of technical info and how-to's visit Eric The Coolcat home page.
0.3 Original Author's Notes:
This FAQ began when I bought my '86 5.0 Coupe in November of '97 and couldn't find much
info on this generation of Thunderbirds. Plenty of sites are devoted to the Classic T-birds of the
50's and 60's, but no one seems to care about one of the most successful and popular designs of
all time. So I decided to do some research, and this is the result. The FAQ is designed to provide
a general background on Aero-Birds, as well as more detailed topics, such as performance
modifications. It is easy to update regularly, and I'll do my best to add information. Please send
me any information you know that is not included here, and feel free to write articles on any
topic you want that is related to Aero-Birds. I'd love to hear from someone who dropped a big
block into their tubbed Aero-Bird and runs 8's regularly, or someone who added a scoop and
blower to their CFI 3.8 V6, and even the gas mileage freak, who removed the turbo from their
Turbo Coupe to get better fuel economy (I'd love to know how he adapted the EEC-IV to turbo
less mode).
I know there's not much on the Turbo Coupes. If you want to see more, let me know, and I'll start
working on it.
This site is an open forum for all who love Thunderbirds.
1.0 Year-by-Year 1983-1988
1983
This is the original aerodynamic Ford - beating the Taurus by three years. The styling was nothing short of revolutionary in the early eighties. From the smoothly sculpted grille and fenders, to the tapered rear quarters and sloping backside, the Thunderbird was downright sexy. The Previous year's econo bird was "busy" in appearance, with no less than three different vinyl roof treatments available, and gobs of body cladding intersecting at right angles. The Aero-Bird was refreshing, and caused sales to increase 254% in one year. This year saw the lowest production of any Aero-Bird. No Aero-Bird ever came with a factory vinyl roof. (Although some dealer installed roofs were available, and they looked Awful.)
Three models and three engines were available this year. The standard and Heritage coupes were luxury oriented autos, while the top-line Turbo Coupe was more of a sophisticated sports car. Turbo Coupes are easily identified by their fog lights and black trim around the headlights. Heritage editions have rectangular, "heritage" badges on the C pillars, in place of chrome bird emblems. The Heritage badges have electro chromic illumination, which apparently burns out very quickly, and requires replacing the entire badge. Most owners just leave the badges burnt out, and many never realized they were ever support to light up.
The interior was shared with other full sized Ford cars. The dash had a "T" theme to it, with a large flat black plastic panel (with optional faux wood grain instead of the black plastic) stretching its width near the top, which was only broken by the gauges and vents. The bottom leg of the T housed (from top down) the ventilation controls, radio, and a black plastic section that contained the cigarette lighter. Gauges on the non turbo models are minimal - only a speedo and fuel gauge. Even the carryover digital gauges that were first available in 1980, only have a digital speedometer and digital fuel gauge. Turbo coupe gauge clusters were similar to the standard gauges, except that there was a tach on the left side (very early models may have had the tach in the center of the dash where the clock usually sits). The fuel gauge was in the center, where the shift indicator would be on other models. Articulated bucket seats were available on the turbo coupe. A four passenger seating arrangement with a full length console was standard on all models. Vent windows are optional. This was the last year the 8-track player was available in the Thunderbird.
Standard power was the 2 bbl 3.8 (232 ci) V6. Optional was the CFI 5.0 (302 ci) V8. The multi-point fuel injected and turbo-charged 2.3L (140 ci) 4 cyl. was only available with a manual transmission. The Automatic transmissions used are the C5 and the AOD. The V6 came with the C5 standard; AOD optional, V8's had the AOD standard. The Suspension was modified McPherson struts up front, and a four link solid axle in back. TC's had quad gas shocks on the rear axle. All models had power rack and pinion steering, TC's having a fixed 15.1:1 ratio for a sportier feel, other models had a variable ratio system.
Available wheel options: Deluxe Wheel Covers, Styled Road Wheels (covers), Luxury Wheel Covers, Wire Wheel covers, Locking Wire Wheel covers, TRX Cast Aluminum Wheels (standard on TC).
The standard "Deluxe Wheel Covers" are unusual, in that they are made of rubber. They are molded, and then glued on to the steel wheels. This provided rust proof, dent proof, wheel covers that would never fall off. I am unaware of any other similar wheel covers used by anyone, anywhere.
The turbo/5-speed trans. T-Bird was good for a top speed of 123 MPH, 0-60 in 9.7s and ¼ mile in 16.5s @ 81 MPH
V6 / AOD model: 0-60 in 13.1s, ¼ mile 19s @72.9 MPH.
Engine specs:
| Type: | V6 232 ci. (3.8L) | V8 302 ci. (5.0L) | Turbo OHC I4 140 ci. (2.3L) |
| Fuel Delivery | 2 bbl. carb. | CFI | SEFI w/ EEC-IV computer |
| Compression :1 | 8.65 | 8.4 | 8 |
| HP @ RPMs | 112 @ 4000 | 130 @ 3200 | 145 @ 4600 |
| Torque @ RPMs | 175 @ 2200 | 240 @ 2000 | 172 @ 3800 |
Base Prices: Std. $10,401; Heritage $13, 432; Turbo $13,170
1984
The model choices shift slightly, with a new Élan model replacing the Heritage edition, and a limited edition Fila model with bigger tires, and color coordinated aluminum wheels and leather seats. It also comes with a Fila Canvas sport bag w/ leather portfolio, beach towel and other Fila items. The steering wheel is changed from a four spoke to a two spoke design, with the spokes swept sharply downward, though the horn switch on the end of the turn signal was retained, making 2 horn switches. Turbo Coupes have different steering wheels with thicker rims and less sharply swept spokes. The standard instrument cluster switched to a TC style with round gauges. '83 non TC model analog panels have rectangular gauges. This year the front turn signal lenses change from clear to amber.
Fuel injection marks the biggest change for the second year of Aero-Birds. Central Fuel Injection (CFI) is introduced for the V6 upping its hp to 120. Startability/driveability and emissions were also greatly helped. The CFI unit visually resembles a carb. The air ducting, and air cleaner are identical, but take off the air cleaner and the twin fuel injectors are revealed. The system utilized an Electronic Engine Control IV (EEC-IV) computer to monitor sensors and adjust the fuel mixture and flow accordingly. All other chassis specs are identical to '83.
Available wheel options: Deluxe Wheel Covers (Rubber), Styled Road Wheels (covers), Locking Wire Wheel covers, TRX Cast Aluminum Wheels, 8-hole Cast Aluminum Wheels (standard on TC).
Engine specs:
| Type: | V6 232 ci. (3.8L) | V8 302 ci. (5.0L) | Turbo OHC I4 140 ci. (2.3L) |
| Fuel Delivery | CFI w/ EEC-IV computer | CFI w/ EEC-IV computer | SEFI w/ EEC-IV computer |
| Compression :1 | 8.65 | 8.4 | 8 |
| HP @ RPMs | 120 @ 3600 | 140 @ 3200 | 145 @ 4600 |
| Torque @ RPMs | 205 @ 1600 | 250 @ 1600 | 172 @ 3800 |
Base Prices: Std. $10,808; Élan $13, 836; Turbo $13,820, Fila 15,646
1985
Turbo coupe models gain a "blacked out" grille, and red pin-striping, in place of a chromed grille and stripping. The tail lights are changed slightly, moving the reverse lights from the center of the tail lights, to next to the license plate. There is a special 30th Anniversary Edition with unique trim. The Thunderbird emblem changed for '85. The older style geometric bird is replaced with the new "feathered" bird, which carries on until the demise of T-birds in '97.
An updated dashboard and instrument panel is the biggest change for this year. The right half of the "T" dash of the previous years has been smoothed out (sacrificing glove box space) and the black plastic panel replaced by faux wood or faux brushed stainless steel. The stereo and A/C controls are angled towards the driver (try sitting in the passenger seat and you'll realize it). The standard gauges add a coolant temperature gauge to the speedo and fuel gauge. The speedometer/odometer is digital. The optional fully electronic gauges add a tach, oil pressure, and volt gauge, plus various fuel computers. Only the turbo coupe retains the fully analog gauges which include 85 MPH speedo, tach, oil, temp, fuel, amps, and boost. The horn activated by pressing in on the turn signal lever is eliminated, requiring the use of the normal horn pad in the steering wheel. New options include automatic climate control, and a premium stereo with equalizer and separate trunk mounted amplifier. On non-turbo models, the full length console is replaced by a storage bin/arm rest, called a "min-consolette", that is attached to the driver's seat. Power window/mirror/seat controls are located on this console.
The CFI V6 and V8, and the SEFI turbo 4 cyl. engines carry over, but the 4 cyl. gains electronic boost control. Variable ratio steering is dropped, and now all models have the fixed 20:1 ratio, except the turbo coupes, which have the 15:1 ratio steering. The C3 3-speed automatic becomes optional with the Turbo Coupe.
Available wheel options: Deluxe Wheel Covers (Rubber), Styled Road Wheels (covers), Locking Wire Wheel covers, 8-hole Cast Aluminum Wheels, 10-hole 15" Cast Aluminum Wheels (Standard on TC).
Engine specs:
| Type: | V6 232 ci. (3.8l) | V8 302 ci. (5.0L) | Turbo OHC I4 140 cid. (2.3L) |
| Fuel Delivery | CFI w/ EEC-IV computer | CFI w/ EEC-IV computer | SEFI w/ EEC-IV computer |
| Compression :1 | 8.65 | 8.4 | 8 |
| HP @ RPMs | 120 @ 3600 | 140 @ 3200 | 145 @ 4600 |
| Torque @ RPMs | 205 @ 1600 | 250 @ 1600 | 172 @ 3800 |
Base Prices: Std. $11,420; Élan $13,091; Turbo $14,540, Fila 16,149
1986
Few changes are made to the exterior, while designers concentrate on the '87 model. Interiors carry over as well. The Fila model is discontinued, leaving the base, Élan, and Turbo Coupe. A center high mounted brake light is added to meet federal regulations. The power train warranty was extended to 3 years/unlimited mileage.
A new collapsible spare tire - inflated by a portable pump that plugs into the cigarette lighter - is an innovative new option. The optional sunroof gains a power retract feature. Previous models merely flipped up.
More power for the V8 and turbo 4 cyl. engines for 86. The 5.0 trades it's CFI fuel injection in favor of a more modern Sequential Multipoint Electronic System (see engines section) which increases HP and Torque. The turbo engine gains 10 hp when used with the manual trans. Hydraulic engine mounts smoothed out the power.
Available wheel options: Deluxe Wheel Covers (Rubber), Styled Road Wheels (covers), Locking Wire Wheel covers, 8-hole Cast Aluminum Wheels, 10-hole 15" Cast Aluminum Wheels (Standard on TC).
A turbo coupe/manual transmission model could hit 137 MPH, and rode on unidirectional Goodyear Gatorback P225/VR60/15 tires. With the C3 automatic transmission it could do 0-60 in 9.29s.
Engine specs:
| Type: | V6 232 ci. (3.8l) | V8 302 ci. (5.0L) | Turbo OHC I4 140 ci. (2.3L) |
| Fuel Delivery | CFI w/ EEC-IV computer | EFI w/ EEC-IV computer | SEFI w/ EEC-IV computer |
| Compression :1 | 8.65 | 8.9 | 8 |
| HP @ RPMs | 120 @ 3600 | 150 @ 3400 | 155/145 @ 4600 |
| Torque @ RPMs | 205 @ 1600 | 270 @ 2000 | 190 @ 3800 |
Base Prices: Std. $12,214; Élan $13,748; Turbo $15,652
1987
In this year the Aero-bird receives it's only major styling change. In keeping with Ford's "Aero" design philosophy of the '80s , the entire front end of the T-bird receives a make over. The quad sealed head lamps of the previous four years are gone, and replaced with aero halogen lights. The grille is lower and wider. Taillights change slightly, with the bird emblems moves lower, and the reflectors changes to give the appearance of 3 circles of light behind the red lens.
The lineup was shuffled too. The Élan is gone, replaced by the LX, and a new Thunderbird Sport is available and has the V8 standard.
Turbo coupes are changed more than the other models. They have their own unique front end treatment including a solid sheet metal beak, broken only by a chrome bird emblem. Unique hood scoops, and new body cladding round out the package. The turbo receives and inter cooler that boosts power to 190 hp @4600 RPMs. Turbo coupes gain a dual exhaust (though not a true dual exhaust), and Anti-Lock 4-wheel disk brakes. A new driver-adjustable suspension is standard on Turbo models, along with a premium/regular fuel switch (this changed the amount of boost the engine was allowed to receive, as premium fuel allows more boost than regular). The adjustable suspension has two modes, Firm and Automatic. It uses sensors mounted on the strut and shock towers, as well as lateral g sensors to automatically stiffen or soften the air shocks to match driving conditions. On firm mode it kept all shocks at maximum stiffness for better handling and braking. Rims moved up to 16" on Turbo models. The 4-speed A4LD (not the AOD) transmission is available on the Turbo coupe, replacing the 3-speed C3 as the optional tranny. A 5 speed manual is still standard on the turbo.
The CFI V6 and SEFI V8 engines are unchanged.
Available wheel options: Luxury Wheel Covers (rubber), Locking Wire Wheel covers, Styled Road Wheels (covers), 8-hole Cast Aluminum, 16" custom Cast Aluminum Wheels (standard, and only available on TC).
0-60 in 8.5s and ¼ mile in 16.3s. @ 81.8 MPH
Engine specs:
| Type: | V6 232 ci. (3.8L) | V8 302 ci. (5.0L) | Turbo OHC I4 140 ci. (2.3L) |
| Fuel Delivery | CFI w/ EEC-IV computer | SEFI w/ EEC-IV computer | SEFI w/ EEC-IV computer |
| Compression :1 | 8.65 | 8.9 | 8 |
| HP @ RPMs | 120 @ 3600 | 150 @ 3400 | 190 @ 4600 |
| Torque @ RPMs | 205 @ 1600 | 270 @ 2000 | 240 @ 3400 |
Base Prices: Std. $13,460; LX $15,789; Sport Coupe $15,497 Turbo $17,547
1988
Few changes are made for the last year of Aero-Birds. Styling inside and out remains the same. Ford's design team was busy perfecting the new MN12 body style that debuted in '89, so there is almost nothing new for the T-bird.
The Sport model is the exception, as it receives many mods in it's last year. It gets the TC's analog instrumentation (minus the boost gauge, and with a 6000 RPM tach instead of the 7000 RPM TC unit). TC's suspension tuning, floor shifter for the AOD tranny, and articulated bucket seats.
The corporate 3.8 V6 gains multipoint EFI and a balance shaft, which helps power. The V8 gains 5 hp with the addition of a faux dual exhaust. Turbo stick shift models get a computer recalibration that permits full boost in all 5 gears, instead of only allowing full boost in first and second.
Available wheel options: Luxury Wheel Covers (rubber), Locking Wire Wheel covers, Styled Road Wheels (covers), 8-hole Cast Aluminum, 16" custom Cast Aluminum Wheels (standard, and only available on TC).
Engine specs:
| Type: | V6 232 ci. (3.8L) | V8 302 ci. (5.0L) | Turbo OHC I4 140 ci. (2.3L) |
| Fuel Delivery | EFI w/ EEC-IV computer | SEFI w/ EEC-IV computer | SEFI w/ EEC-IV computer |
| Compression :1 | 9 | 8.9 | 8 |
| HP @ RPMs | 140 @ 3800 | 155 @ 3400 | 190 @ 4600 |
| Torque @ RPMs | 215 @ 2400 | 265 @ 2200 | 240 @ 3400 |
Base Prices: Std. $13,929; LX $16,214; Sport Coupe $16,359 Turbo $17,578
2.0 Statistics
2.1 Production Numbers
| Year | 1983 | 1984 | 1985 | 1986 | 1987 | 1988 |
| Total Production | 121,999 | 170,551 | 151,852 | 165,965 | 128,135 | 147,243 |
| V6 | 57.8% | 55% | 52% | 67.8% | 59.2% | 46.3% |
| V8 | 31.9% | 31.4% | 34.3% | 19.2% | 22.2% | 28.4% |
| TC | 10.3% | 8.6% | 13.7% | 13% | 18.6% | 25.3% |
| Manual trans | 10.3% | 6.3% | 8% | 8.3% | 12% | 15.4% |
| Sunroofs | 2.2% | 8.7% | 7.6% | 12.9% |
2.2 Aero-Bird Specifications
Wheelbase: 104"
Curb weight: 2900-3300lbs
Length: 197.6"
Width: 71.1"
Height: 53.2"
Front Head Room: 37.7"
Front Leg Room: 42.0"
Front Shoulder Room: 55.2"
Rear Head Room: 36.7"
Rear Leg Room: 34.3"
Front Tread: 58.1"
Rear Tread: 58.5"
Trunk Space: 14.6 cubic feet
Fuel Tank: 22.1 gallons
Turning Circle: 38.6'
Turns lock-to-lock: 2.5
3.0 The Ford 302 (5.0 l) V8 Engine
Background - The 302 Ford small block traces its roots directly as far back as 1962. The first Ford small block, the 221 ci V8 debuted that year in the Ford Fairlane. Through increases in the bore size it grew to 260 and 289 ci. In 1968 the stroke was lengthened 1/8" to an even 3" and with a bore size of 4" it totaled 302 ci. The most fire breathing version of this engine was the BOSS 302 which was the engine used in NASCAR, and Trans-Am racers, and Boss 302 Mustangs. It featured 4 bolt mains, and "4V" Cleveland heads with the semi-hemispherical combustion chambers and canted valves. This monster was conservatively rated at 290hp @5800 RPMs. The Cleveland heads made the BOSS 302 weigh about 40 lb.. more than a normal 302 that weighs in at 460 lb. - considerably lighter than a Chevy small block.
The gas crunch years of the late '70s and early '80s saw the 302 drop to a 2 bbl dog. It hit a low of 122 hp. Every aspect of these engines reeked of emissions controls and desperate attempts at good fuel economy. The blocks were thin, engines breathed through Motorcraft 2 barrel carbs, narrow port heads, and equally restricting exhaust manifolds. The CFI fuel injection introduced in '83 provided a bigger boost in emissions and economy than in performance.
In '82, there evolved two distinctly different automotive 302s: Standard Output and High Output. During the '80s each series underwent similar changes in fueling, they both switched to roller lifters, etc., but each retained its own distinct personality. The S.O. unit remained a low revving torque monster, that can't breath past 4000 RPMs, but will happily spend most if its time gurgling along at less than 2000 RPMs while lugging Town cars and T-birds. The H.O. became a more Rev Happy and obviously a more powerful engine.
3.1 Types of 302's
For the purposes of performance upgrades and AeroBirds, 302's can be classified into 4 categories: carburated, CFI, Speed Density SEFI, and Mass Air SEFI. Since all FOX T-birds came with CFI or Speed Density SEFI engines, this FAQ will concentrate on these types.
3.2 CFI performance recipe
The CFI 302s are the most difficult to extract power from. It is also a type of Speed Density fuel injection. Speed Density systems rely on sensors to input the speed of the engine, then they look up the engine's volumetric efficiency at that RPM, and based on the density of the air, it estimates how much air is actually going into the engine. Once it calculates how much air is going in, it can inject just the right amount of fuel. On a stock engine, this actually works extremely well. Problems come up when there are modifications so that the volumetric efficiency of the engine is altered. The worst thing you can do is slap on new heads, or a new cam into a speed density engine. The computer has no way of dealing with the increased air flow, and different volumetric efficiency curve, and this is what makes speed density engines so difficult to modify.
Here's some "minor" mods that can be done to any CFI 5.0 that will give a noticeable boost to
performance, and not hurt reliability/streetability.
1. K&N air filter and dual snorkel intake
2. Higher performance coil
3. MSD Ignition unit (6A or better preferred)
4. Dual exhaust system (see exhaust section)
5. Better ratio rear-end (see rear-end section)
6. Advance the timing (will require a switch to premium, 92+ octane fuel)
If the parts are available, some people have been known to swap on a dual or triple carburetor manifold, and run 2 or 3 CFI units. Just splice all the wiring harness in together. Do not do this looking for more power, do it if you like to play with your engine. It could generate more power if you have a hotter cam, dual exhaust, etc, but then the speed density computer will not work without a custom chip. Dual CFI units will not produce any more power unless lots of other mods are made, and even then, a carb or SEFI, or even just higher flow CFI injectors are probably a better path to power.
3.21 Fuel system upgrades. If you want to be a little more daring, the CFI system will get in your way. Before you swap heads or camshafts, you should either update it with a Mass Air fuel injection system, or revert to carburation. Neither is particularly strait forward. If you want to stick with CFI, you will need a custom EEC-IV chip.
A mass air conversion will require obtaining the intake manifolds, EGR spacer, throttle body, fuel injectors, fuel rails, and all other fuel related components (except the fuel pump), the mass air sensor, and most importantly, the new EEC-IV computer, and ALL associated wiring harnesses. Since the H.O. engine also has a different firing order, you must use the cam from the car you get the computer from (or a suitable aftermarket cam). This can be tricky though, because sometime between '84 and '87 Ford began phasing in roller cam engines, which take different camshafts/tappets/pushrods than the earlier flat tappet engines. If your not sure which you have, pull a pushrod, if it's 6.25" it's a roller motor. If the rod is longer, about 6.7-6.9" than it's a flat tappet engine. If you want to keep the cam in your car, you will have to rewire the injectors to "trick" the computer into firing them in the proper sequence. If your CFI engine also has a duraspark ignition, you will have to replace it with a TFI unit. The parts are easy enough to obtain from a junk yard (or new from a Ford dealer, if you so desire). Any '89-93 V8 Mustang, as well as '89-'92 Lincoln Mark VIIs contain all the necessary components. The worst part of a mass air conversion is the wiring. The EEC-IV has connections all over the car, and can become overwhelming very quickly. The positive side of a Mass air conversion is it will make all future mods very easy, as mass air adapts to changes in the engine's airflow from new cams, heads and the like. Once you convert, that's it. It should also make it easier to pass emissions tests (assuming it is functioning correctly). Also, your gas mileage may increase slightly. Supercharger installation is easy with Mass Air injection, though don't trust the stock pistons or connecting rods.
If you don't have to pass the smog sniffer tests, and/or don't want the wiring nightmare associated
with Mass air injection, then carburators are for you. The simplest swap would be to a 2bbl
carb, but while your at it, you may as well swap the intake manifold with an aftermarket 4bbl
intake and use a 4bbl carb.. This will require a switch to a Duraspark II ignition if you have a
TFI ignition. New distributor, coil, and vacuum lines - complete Duraspark II systems can be
found easily and cheaply at junkyards. The biggest challenge will be the fuel pump. Fuel
injected engines use an electric fuel pump mounted in the gas tank. The right way to do it is to
obtain the fuel pickup tube, and fuel gauge sending unit from a carburetor equipped FOX chassis
vehicle. Most of the original fuel lines can be reused, and an electric fuel pump should be
installed, or a mechanical pump can be used. Another way that is easier, is to install an
aftermarket fuel pressure regulator downstream of the carb in the return line, and regulate the
fuel pressure to 7-9 PSI with the stock fuel pump. You will have to splice in to the wiring and
wire the fuel pump to be on with the ignition is on, instead of on when the computer tells it to
be. A 390 Holley is more than adequate for a stock 302 go with a 500 CFM carb if you plan
more modifications. The upside to a carb is you have a tuneable, simple fuel system. The down
side is poor cold weather performance, and possible problems passing state emissions
inspection. Also, superchargers work much better with fuel injection.
The easiest solution of all may be a complete engine swap, especially if your CFI 302 is getting a
little worn. You can get a crate H.O. 5.0 from Ford Motorsport for about $2000. It's rated at
225hp @4000 RPMs, and 300lb/ft of torque at 3000 RPMs. You'll just need a few more wiring
harnesses and computers, that are available though junk yards and Ford dealers. Or you can drop
in a crate 351W for about $3500, plus computer. In many states this can be legal, because you
can claim it is an engine from (or for) a 1995 Mustang Cobra R. You may have to pass 1995
emissions then though.
3.3 SEFI Engines
Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection was made standard in 1986. It utilizes one injector per cylinder, located above the intake valve. It utilized a two piece cast aluminum manifold with tuned runners and Speed-Density air metering. The system would accept inputs from Oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifolds, throttle position, air speed, temperature, and density and determines how much fuel to meter out to each cylinder. It sends a command to each injector - in sequence- to deliver the precise amount of fuel necessary. Note that it is not a Mass Air Flow (MAF) system. MAF sensors detect the actual amount of air entering the engine, instead of calculating the approximate amount based on the velocity of the air. Also in 1986, Roller Tappets, low tension piston rings, and improved heads were made standard on the S.O. V8. The firing order was changed in 1983 on the H.O. motors, but the S.O. units retained the old order, and the current 5.0 Explorers continue to use the old 302 firing pattern. This is not a big deal, except when shopping for camshafts. The S.O. 5.0 cam is pretty sad, a much better and easily available cam is the one used in the new Explorer 5.0. This will provide more overall power and torque. When modifying a S.O. 5.0, keep in mind that these engines have cast steel cranks, and cast aluminum pistons, which will limit their revving ability. That is, Don't make modifications tat will only be effective above 4000 RPMs. These engines "yellow line" at about 4500, and redline at 5000.
The new heads for the 5.0L in '86 were the redesigned "high swirl" cylinder heads (E6SE casting type). 1987-1995 H.O. motors used truck casting wedge cylinder heads with larger ports and valves, ( casting # E7TE-AA ). They provided an approximate 15 hp increase over the S.O. (E6SE) heads. The S.O. 5.0 used the E6SE heads through '91, while the H.O. engine only used them in '86. The E6 Heads are known for providing one of the broadest torque bands, especially from an engine with only a 3" stroke.
These engines have more performance potential than the earlier 5.0's. On the intake side of the engine everything from the throttle body to the heads is similar to the H.O. version found in the Mustang and Lincoln Mark VII. The S.O. (Thunderbird/ Crown Victoria) version uses a 50 mm throttle body and EGR Spacer, and a narrow tube manifold. The High output version uses a 58 mm TB and EGR and bigger runners. They are similar in that they swap directly - all hoses and wires swap directly from between manifolds, which makes the H.O. intake a relatively cheep performance upgrade - though the benefits from such an upgrade can be seen most readily when other upgrades are made to the engine first.
Keep in mind that the 289-302-351W Windsor family engine and the 351C-351M-400 ci. Cleveland family engines can interchange heads with relative ease. They sometimes use different size bolts, (7/16 vs. 1/2) and occasionally coolant holes must be drilled, and oil galleries blocked off with gaskets, but you can use any of these heads on any of these engines. Different intake manifolds and headers are sometimes necessary. Even the legendary Cleveland canted valve heads will work on a 5.0 - though they flow too much air for this engine and are not recommended. Early heads also do not have provisions for an EGR and AIR injection systems, so it may be impossible to have them pass emissions inspection. This interchangeability allows a wide selection of heads to chose from to increase the 5.0's power. Not including aftermarket heads. A popular swap for owners that do not have to pass emissions is 289 heads, from an '63-'68 289ci small block. They flow well, and will increase the compression ratio slightly.
3.31 - Speed Density SEFI S.O. performance recipe
These are all items that will increase performance without sacrificing driveability/durability of
the engine, and should not affect the engine's emissions. Note that the list starts off very
similarly to the CFI performance recipe.
1. K&N air filter and dual snorkel intake
2. Higher performance coil
3. MSD Ignition unit (6A or better preferred)
4. Dual exhaust system (see exhaust section)
5. Better ratio rear-end (see rear-end section)
6. Advance the timing (will require a switch to premium, 92+ octane fuel)
7. H.O. throttle body, and upper intake manifold (the lower manifolds are identical.
8. E7TE (Mustang/Truck) heads, cam, 19lb injectors, and computer from a Speed Density '87 or
'88 Mustang (this must be done at the same time). OR A mass air conversion, followed by
cam/head upgrades at your leisure. The speed density upgrade is cheaper, but mass air will
allow further upgrades, or different heads/cam. If you plan a supercharger, nitrous, turbos, or
upgrade to a 351, definately go with mass air.
3.4 V8 Engine Specifications
Displacement 302 ci. (5.0L)
Bore : 4.00"
Stroke : 3.00"
Bore Spacing : 4.380"
Main journal : 2.2486"
Rod journal : 2.1232"
Rod length : 5.09"
Intake valve : 1.78"
Exhaust valves : 1.46"
Firing Order : 15426378
4.0 The Ford 232 (3.8l) V6 Engine
Background - Fords first 90 degree V6 engine was introduced in 1982 to replace the 255 ci (4.2L) V8. The 255 motor, essentially a de-bored 302, was introduced two years earlier to provide a compromise in fuel economy and power between the 200 ci inline 6 and the 302 V8. The 255 was the opposite of a performance motor - producing a whopping 111 hp. The 232 "Essex" V6, as it was known, was a Godsend, it was more powerful and more fuel efficient than the 255. Sense then, there have been essentially three generations of 232 V6 engines: central fuel metering (no balance shaft, has carb or has CFI), Multi-Port EFI (have balance shaft and use EEC-IV) and Split Port Induction (have balance shaft and use EEC-V). The supercharged engines would be in the second generation, because they rely on the EEC-IV computer, and were produced in the same time frame as the EFI engines.
This V6 was produced by slicing off the back two cylinders from a small block 8, though no small block shares it's 3.8" x 3.4" bore and stroke. The ignition timing is identical to a Windsor motor minus the two rear cylinders. heads and cams are also ¾ the length of the V8's. Rocker arms and pushrods are identical to the V8's, making roller rocker arms a possible performance upgrade. The blocks on all 232's are Iron, making them very durable. The fist generation (Central Fuel Metering) V6's had Iron heads, later models had aluminum heads.
For the first two years of production the V6 breathed through a 2 bbl carb, which was then swapped for CFI injection in '84. This utilized two injectors in place of the two barrel carb, and an EEC-IV computer. (see the above section on the CFI 5.0) In '88 multipoint injection similar to the V8's SEFI became standard. The V6's injection however, was not timed with the individual cylinder, but the injectors fired once every other crankshaft revolution in two groups of three. Injectors 1, 2, and 4 fire simultaneously, and 3, 5, and 6 fire simultaneously on the next revolution - in time with the intake valves. This in known as "bank-fire" multi point injection instead of sequential multi point injection. The manifold visually resembles the V8's manifold. A balance shaft was added to these engines in '88 as well to quell vibrations.
4.1 Performance Recipe for the 232ci V6
Here is just about every thing you can do to improve the performance of your 232 V6.
1. K&N Air filter
2. High output coil
3. MSD 5 or 6A multiple spark discharge unit. The 6A or better is preferred.
4. High performance spark-plug wires
5. Roller Rockers. Uses the same pedestal mount rockers as the small block 5.0 V8's, so you
can simply purchase a set made for the V8, and have 4 rockers left over, and sometimes you can
buy them in sets of 12.
6. Advance the timing (NOTE: this requires a switch to premium fuel)
7. Shorter rear gears.
For the more adventuresome:
8. Custom Dual exhaust system. 2" or 2¼" tubing is all you need unless you are
supercharging the engine.
9. A custom Nitrous Oxide installation.
10. A custom supercharger installation. This will only work with a custom chip for the EEC-IV
because the Speed-density injection just can't deal with the added air-flow.
The performance potential of the 3.8 is limited. short of installing a supercharger from an '89-'95 Super Coupe Thunderbird, large horsepower gains are simply not possible because of the more limited parts available. Some performance exhaust headers, are produced for the 3.8, but they are harder to find than parts for the 302. Unlike the V8's with CFI, the V6's are better with CFI injection than without simply because no 4 bbl intake manifold exists for the 3.8 V6, and the only 2 bbl manifold is a "high swirl" (read: narrow tube) design, so you might as well stick to the better reliability, storability, and fuel mileage of fuel injection. When distributor-less ignition was implemented remains a topic of debate. It was used from the start on supercharged engines, but sometime between 1990 and 1994 DIS became standard on the regular 3.8. Let me know if you have any info on this.
The newest 3.8's, the Split Port Induction motors, are used in the '96 and later Windstar Minivans. This engine has 2 intake runners for each cylinder, one short and one long. At low RPMs the long runners operate to provide good low end torque, and at about 3500 RPMs the short runners open to expand breathing at high engine speeds, and dramatically increase hp (It rose from 150 to 200 with the dual runners). This engine is not really an option for Aero-Bird owners. It utilizes an EEC-V computer which would be extremely difficult to get working in the older car. It is also much too tall to fit in the Thunderbird, which is why the '96 and '97 T-Birds and late model Mustang's continue to use the single port induction intakes (although with the EEC-V).
Vanir Technologies specializes in Ford V6 Performance parts, though I have told they are dropping most of their 3.8 parts, and carry only 4.0 parts. (The 4.0 is a completely different engine, descended from the 2.6, 2.8 and 2.9L V6s. A member of the Colongue family, originally designed by Ford of Germany in Colongue. It has a 60 degree bank, and shares no parts with the 3.8)
http://members.aol.com/vanirv6/vanir.htm
The good news is that you can easily swap in an engine with a lot more potential. Crate H.O. 302's are available from Ford Motorsport for about $2000, and you can keep your stock C5 or AOD transmission. Check out the section on engine swaps for more details.
4.2 232 V6 Specifications
Displacement 232 ci. (3.8L)
Bore : 3.8"
Stroke : 3.4"
Bore Spacing : 4.380"
Main journal : 2.519"
Rod journal : 2.3103"
Rod length : 5.09"
Intake valve : 1.78"
Exhaust valves : 1.46"
Firing Order : 142536
5.0 The rest of the Powertrain
5.1 Transmissions: Which transmission do I have?
| Engine | Shift Pattern | Tranny |
| 302 V8 | P-R-N-OD-D-1 | AOD |
| 232 V6 | P-R-N-OD-D-1 | AOD |
| 232 V6 | P-R-N-D-2-1 | C5 |
| 2.3L Turbo 4 | Manual 5 speed | Borg Warner T-5, 4 cyl bolt pattern |
| 2.3L Turbo 4 | P-R-N-D-2-1 | C3 |
| 2.3l Turbo 4 | P-R-N-OD-D-2-1 | A4LD |
5.11 The AOD Transmission
The AOD is a 4 speed overdrive automatic tranny, with a semi-lockup torque converter. It
debuted in '80, and features all metric fasteners. This tranny is heavy duty from the factory, also
used in Automatic V8 Mustangs, Crown Vics, some of the mid-size LTD's, F150s, Broncos, and
Econoline vans. Because it was used in the mustang, there are numerous shift kits, and
aftermarket valve bodies available for it. AOD's can be built to handle A LOT of power. The
stock AOD in your car should be adequate up until at least 300+ HP before you will need to look
into strengthening it.
5.12 The C5 Transmission
The C5 can be built even stronger than the AOD. In stock form it should be more than adequate
for even a supercharged 3.8 V6. It is identical to the legendary C4, but it has a lockup torque
converter. The C5 is a 3 speed design, so it's biggest drawback is that ford typically put taller
rear gears in C5 equipped cars to keep revs down on the highway because there is no overdrive.
When swapping rear gears you have to watch which ones you put in, if you put 4.10's then at 60
MPH with stock 215/70R14 tires you'll be pulling 3200 RPMs, which is quite high for cruising.
With this ratio rear, it will redline at 5000 RPMs at 93 MPH. A better choice if you drive on the
highway may be 3.08's (2400 @ 60 MPH) or 2.73's (2129 @ 60 MPH).
5.13 The C3 Transmission
The C3 is one of the weaker of Ford's automatic transmissions. It was only used with 4 cylinders
and 60° V6 engines. With a stock Turbo Coupe it should be fine, but If you start doing
serious mods, you should probably look into a T-5. The C3 puttered around in many Pintos,
Fairmonts and 4 cylinder Mustangs for years, before being used in the 4 cylinder T-Birds. Being
a 3 speed, non-overdrive transmission, the C3 shares the same weakness as the C5, in that you
must be careful when selecting a rear, or you may end up putting the engine above it's power
band in top gear long before the end of the ¼ mile, not to mention revving it very high on
the highway.
5.14 The A4LD Transmission
The Automatic 4 speed Light Duty Transmission is essentially a C3 with an extra overdrive
gear. It address the problem of really high revs on the highway (about 2700 RPMs at 60 MPH
with 4.10's and 215/70R14 tires), though it's not much stronger than a C3. The A4LD was (is)
used in countless Rangers, 4 cylinder Mustangs, Explorers, and Aerostars. It is however, just as
weak as a C3, so if you plan a lot of performance upgrades on your '87-'88 Turbo Coupe, swap in
a T-5 when the A4LD goes south.
In '96 it was replaced (in North America) by the A4LD-E - an electronic version of the A4LD tranny. In '97 the 5R55E began supplementing the A4LD-E. It is a 5 speed transmission, that makes the extra gear by engaging 1st and overdrive at the same time. The result is a new ratio between 1st and 2nd on the old tranny, and no extra cost. All of these electronic transmissions are nightmares to get working on an older car. They all require the EEC-V computer, and A LOT of wiring. I've herd of people running an EEC-IV and an EEC-V together with the EEC-V only controlling the tranny. To make this work takes a lot of money and a degree in electrical engineering. It's just not worth it for T-Bird owners.
5.15 The Borg Warner T-5 Transmission
This is the only manual transmission used in the T-birds. Don't be confused though, there are 2
types of T-5's: 4cylinder/60°V6 bolt pattern trannys, and 90°V6/Small Block V8 bolt
pattern trannys. The 4 cyl. T-5's are not as strong as the V8 T-5's, but are more than adequate
with the Turbo 4 bangers. They are stronger than a C3 or A4LD tranny. The V8 T-5s have
different gear ratios, are stronger, but will only bolt up to a small block V8 or a 3.8 V6. The V8
T-5 was never installed in a T-Bird or Cougar from the factory (until the '98 and later Super
Coupes at least) but they will fit directly. The easiest way to make a V8 5-speed Thunderbird is
to find a Turbo coupe with a manual tranny (any year) and pull the engine and tranny, and drop
in a V8 with a T-5. It's a direct fit. All T-5's are direct shifting compact units, that perform quite
well.
5.16 The C4 Automatic (not stock)
The strongest Ford tranny with a small block bolt pattern, the C4 is popular for drag racers. It is
a direct bolt in in place of a C5 or AOD transmission. The biggest downside to a C4 is the lack
of Overdrive, and even of a lockup torque converter. These features make it undesirable for a
daily driver (see the section on the C5). The C4 is the predecessor of the C5, and they are
identical, except that the C5 has a lockup torque converter.
5.17 The C6 Automatic (not stock)
This is a heavy duty transmission with a big block bolt pattern. It is the required automatic if
you swap in a 460/429 big block, or a 351M/400. (the only notable exception being the rare '73
400ci blocks which had a small block bolt pattern). The C6 can be made to fit, but only with a
little persuasion of the floorpan with a hammer. Unless you are swapping in one of the above
engines, use a C4 if you want the ultimate in strength for heavy duty drag racing.
5.18 The Toploader 4 speed manual transmission (not stock)
This is by far the most common manual transmission available with a big block bolt pattern. It
was used in millions of pickup trucks, Mustangs, right on up to the 427 Shelby Cobra.
Toploaders are known for extreme strength, and durability, but lack an overdrive gear. The only
reason for making a toploader fit is if you want to use a big block (460/429 or 351M/400) with a
manual transmission. Obtain the petal assembly from a manual transmission Mustang, as it bolts
directly into your T-bird. If anyone has more information on fitting a toploader into any FOX
chassis car, please let me know.
5.2 Rears
There are several rears that were original equipment on Thunderbirds and Cougars, and even
more that are interchangeable with other FOX chassis vehicles. Note that all FOX chassis
vehicles were equipped with the bolt holes for brackets to attach the horizontal shocks on a quad
shock rear. When obtaining a rear from a junk yard it's always a good idea to change all the
bearings, and open it to inspect all the bolts, and the ring and pinion for wear. This is also the
time to change the ring and pinion if you want a different ratio, or add a limited slip unit. To find
the ratio, count the teeth on the ring gear, and divide that by the number on the pinion gear.
Traction lock rears have multi disc clutches near where the half shafts enter the differential
housing.
5.21 7.5" Thunderbird Rear
The Vast majority of Thunderbirds and Cougars left the factory with this rear. It's strong enough
for everyday use. Most were conventional open rears, but some were equipped with Ford's
Traction Lock limited slip differential. Upgraded gear ratios are available for this rear from
many companies, or even more cheaply from a junkyard, as Rangers, Explorers, and Aerostars
used this rear and were available with a wide variety of ratios. All 7.5" rears came with 4 lugs
and drum brakes of either 9" or 10" (Note that 9 or 10 inches denotes the inside diameter of the
drum. The easy way to tell is to pull a wheel, and on the side of the drum will be stamped
"Max. Dia. 9.060" or Max Dia. 10.060")
5.22 8.8" Turbo Coupe rear
The 8.8" rear was installed on all '87-'88 turbo coupes (and possibly a limited number of earlier
Turbo Coupes) and featured Disc brakes. These are the strongest, and best rears to install on any
T-bird or Cougar. The TC used better ratios than the others (manual models had, I believe a
3.27:1, and automatics had 3.73:1). This rear also featured extra horizontal shocks (when calling
junk yards ask for "quad shock" rears), that better locate the axle. The 8.8" diff has been used on
5.0 Mustangs as well as F-series pickups, so it has proven it's strength, and is capable of handling
big block power. The Disc brakes provide excellent stopping ability. The TC rears are available
at Junkyards complete for about $200-$300. The downside is you will also need to upgrade the
master cylinder to the TC unit (I've also herd that Crown Vic units may work), because Disc
brakes require more fluid than drums, also a TC proportioning valve (of aftermarket adjustable
proportioning valve). Even harder to find are the emergency brake components - you need ALL
the cables from the petal back. If this looks like too much work, read on. These rears have 4 lug
axles.
5.23 8.8" '87-'88 Cougar XR7 8.8" rear
This is exactly as strong as the Turbo Coupe 8.8" rear, it's sized exactly right (like the other
Thunderbird rears), they were all 3.08:1 ratio with Traction Lock, they also used the horizontal
shocks, and you can keep your existing 9" or 10" drums, or use the drum brakes already attached
to the rear. This makes the XR7 rear much easier to swap in than the Turbo Coupe rear, BUT
there are some serious drawbacks. The XR7 rear still uses the drums, so your braking ability
doesn't change any. The worst part is finding an XR7 rear. To find mine, I just went down the
list of Junk yards in the phone book, every day for about a week, before someone was able to
locate one. All said and done it cost $500 to get from the junkyard - that's the other drawback.
The XR7 rears have 4 lug axles.
5.24 8.8" Lincoln Mark VII rear
The Mark VII has the distinction of being the only FOX chassis car to have 5 lug axles. It also
has Disc brakes, and most had tractionlock. It will physically bolt into a Thunderbird, but it will
be about 1" too wide on each side. The rears are fairly common, so the price should be less than
the XR7 rear. Like the Turbo Coupe rear, it requires extensive brake work - new master cylinder
and proportioning valve, new emergency brake linkage. Unlike the Turbo Coupe rear, serious
clearance problems can result if you want to run tires much wider than 215 or 205 tires or so.
('87-'88 Turbo Coupes came from the factory with 225/60R16 tires). If you have access to a
Mark VII rear for very little $$$, go for it. It may also be a good choice for autocrossing
because of the wider track, and disc brakes.
5.25 8.8" Mustang 5.0 rear
'86 through '93 Mustang's came with this rear. It is most similar to the XR7 rear, in that it uses
10" drum brakes, and most were traction lock, 2.73:1 or 3.08:1 ratios. The Mustang rear is much
more commonly available than the XR7. It also uses quad shocks for better axle locating during
a drag launch, or for handling.
6.0 Other Modifications
6.1 Performance shock absorbers - KYB Gas-a-just shocks and struts will firm up the ride considerably, and enhance handling and braking. You will feel every bump and crack in the road however. The handling difference is dramatic though - Turns are flat and there is zero nose-dive when stopping. Cost is ~$230 (for all four absorbers) plus installation. The rear shocks are a straightforward job, and will take a trained idiot about an hour a piece. Installing the front struts is surprisingly easy. The front suspension is a modified MacPherson strut setup, meaning the strut is not inside the spring. This means the struts can be changed without a spring compressor - just place the front of the car on jack stands, and use the jack to raise and lower the lower control arm. After installation the car will need an alignment.
6.2 H.O. Upper intake, Throttle Body and EGR spacer - This provides a noticeable boost in power, especially off the line and at high RPMs. A used H.O. manifold with a 60 mm TB and EGR can be easily found at most junk yards for around $100. New gaskets will run $10-$20 at NAPA or a Ford Dealer. Begin by disassembling the TB-EGR-Manifold unit, noting how it fits together. Clean it out. Brake cleaner works wonders for this, but don't inhale! Reassemble the unit using the new gaskets. When removing the old TB-EGR-Manifold, take careful note of where, and how all the vacuum hoses and wiring connect to the manifold. The unit lifts straight off, but you may have to work it around a large A/C hose. Tape a strip of Duct tape over the intake ports for the lower intake immediately after lifting the manifold to prevent objects from dropping into the cylinders. The new unit drops directly on. Don't forget to connect all the hoses before bolting it down. The entire operation should take 1-2 hours.
6.3 Tips from William O. Mullen - Some simple upgrades can make a marked improvement,
I've just done these to my '88 [5.0 V8], and it is a difference you can FEEL. I highly recommend
any (or ALL) of these:
#1. Get a Mustang HO upper & TB/EGR, 60mm as opposed to the 50mm T-Bird.
#2. 1/2" Phenolic Spacer.
#3. K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit.
#4. Alternative Auto Underdrive Pulley Set (4 Pulleys).
#5. RAM Air Kit, any Mustang will fit w/ slight modifications.
#6. 1.7 Pedestal Mount Rockers.
#7. Exhaust, but it is a little pricey, about $500 from headers to tailpipes.
Other stuff you can do eventually:
#8. Turbo Coupe 8.8" Rear.
#9. Mustang HO Heads.
IT is a good idea to work backwards, i.e., start w/ exhaust, then intake, then concentrate on the bottle neck in the middle. I did intake first, but it was just a matter of the parts I had available as well as the funds.
6.4 Mustang Sway Bars
I purchased the front and rear sway bars for $50 from a junkyard. Any year from 1979-1993
should fit an aero bird. Try to get sway bars from a GT Mustang - these are thickest. Turbo
Coupe sway bars should also fit, and are identical to the Mustang GT sway bars. The rear bar
couldn't be easier to install. 2 bolts hold each end to the lower control arms. Simply put the rear
end up on jack stands (under the subframe, not under the axle, and never under the differential).
Then unbolt the old sway bar (if equipped) and bolt in the new one. The clips and bolts are
interchangeable, so use the ones in best condition. If your T-Bird did not come with a rear sway
bar at all, I'm not sure if the bolt holes are already drilled for them. If not, I'd remove the rear
wheels, and patently and carefully drill the holes. They do not need to be taped because of the
clips.
The Front sway bars are slightly more involved that the rear one, but so in an oil change. First, put the front of the car on jack stands, again, under the subframe, not under the A-arms. Then, unbolt the studs that connect the old sway bar to the lower control arms. Make careful note of the positioning of the nuts, washers, and bushings, you will need to re-use these. Then unbolt the brackets that support the sway bar. The driver's side is easy, just put a 15mm box end wrench on top, and use a ½" ratchet on the bottom, and It'll come right off. On the passenger side, remove the hose from the SMOG pump to gain access to the top bolts. If your car has the little mud guard things, then try to carefully remove the last fastener and move it around the sway bar. Then remove the sway bar and brackets from the car.
You will have to swap brackets, because the T-Bird brackets are taller than the 'stang brackets. You will notice that the brackets are 2 pieces, one inside the other, separate them, then slide the bushing off the end of the sway bar. do this to the new and old sway bars. Swap the bushings, so the tall T-Bird brackets have the thinner (bigger opening in the center) bushings. Squirt some WD40 or other lubricant of choice into the bushing, and slide the entire assembly back onto the new sway bar. Loosely bolt the sway bar and brackets onto the car. Then reassemble the studs that connect it to the A-Arms. Tighten them down hard, then tighten down the bolts to the brackets. Lower the car and installation is complete.
I was surprised at the difference the sway bars make, especially because I already have KYB
shocks. The body rolled even less. And it actually made the ride seem better. I could corner at
significantly higher speeds before encountering tire squeal, and radical transitions (left to right
turns, etc) are much more controlled. This is such an easy and inexpensive improvement with
such dramatic gains, that there's no reason not to do it.
6.5 Air Silencer Removal - (V8 engines only) The Air silencer is a bizarre plastic contraption
placed inside the fender to quiet the intake air. It is bolted in directly behind the air filter.
Removal will give the engine a better note, and the loudness goes up as you press the petal. It
also frees up another few hp, (Muscle Mustang and Fast Ford magazine dyno tested 8 hp
difference on a H.O. 5.0) but that's not really noticeable. Removal is simple. Remove the hose
that connects the air filter to the throttle body. Then open the air filter, remove the element, and
unbolt the remaining portion. You should then see the air silencer on the back of the fender.
Un-bolt it, and push it down and out of the way. The only way to remove it from the fender is to
remove the entire fender, the inner fender wall, or cut up the silencer, so it's easiest just to wedge
it in a corner near the wheel well. Re-attach the air filter, filter element, and hose, and your
good to go.
6.6 Dual Exhaust system install
I purchased Flowtech unequal 1½" headers (painted), a 2¼" Dynomax catalytic
H-pipe, and a Dynomax 2¼" cat back. All were designed for a '86-'93 Mustang
originally. I'm not recommending these brands in particular, but they did work for me. They are
not by any means the best quality parts. 1½" headers and 2¼" H-pipes are
recommended over 1 5/8" headers and 2½" H-pipes, because it will provide extra torque,
without sacrificing horsepower, especially with the S.O. 5.0. Even if you are planning on
updating your 5.0 with H.O. heads, cam, injectors, computer, etc. the smaller pipes will perform
better.
Before installing, move the fuel filter outside the frame rail. This will take some extra fuel hose, clamps, etc. but is necessary to clear the passenger side muffler. Some '87-'88 models may already have the fuel filter mounted here. This is also a good opportunity to install a new filter. The Oxygen Sensor harnesses will need to be lengthened (they screw into the H-pipe instead of the manifolds) - be sure to solder the connections, as O2 sensors are very sensitive, carrying voltages from 0 to 1.4 volts. OR if they have not be replace in quite some time, obtain the Mustang sensors with the appropriate length harnesses.
When installing the parts, install the H-pipe first, then the headers. the driver's side header required some "custom fitting" with a hammer to clear the steering column, though the passenger side header fits with no problem. When installing the bolts, install the front and rear bolts first, then the rest, then tighten all. Don't leave out any bolts! (Be sure to start the engine for a few seconds to hear a real engine, uncapped. Though not too long, it will get hot.) Before installing the mufflers, obtain 2x 4" extensions (the T-bird's wheelbase is 4" longer than a Mustang's). NAPA stocks the appropriate parts, ask for adaptors that are 2¼" I.D. and 2¼" O.D. (sounds silly) or whatever the size of your exhaust components. Don't forget additional clamps, and exhaust sealer cement. Purchase the factory passenger side muffler hanger, it is by far the easiest way to attach that muffler.
When you are ready for the tailpipes, do the driver's side first, it is a direct swap. The passenger side will be more difficult, as you will have to find a way to mount the tailpipe. The factory Mustang mount also works well here, or a custom welded on bracket.
If you've gotten this far, you've noticed that the tips don't quite rear the rear of the car, in fact
they're about 9" short. This is because, Mustang's have a 9" shorter rear overhang than T-birds.
The easy cop out here is to purchase some chrome extension tips. A better way is to purchase
some straight extension pipes, and clamp them on. Be sure the new tips rear the end of the car,
to avoid Carbon Monoxide buildup under the car.
7.0 Common repairs
7.1 Windshield Wipers won't return to "rest" position. This is a common problem on all Aero birds that is easily fixed in less than 30 minutes. I have successfully repaired two cars with this same problem.
1. Open the Hood, and prop it up.
2. Turn the ignition key down to the accessory position, and turn on the wipers. turn the ignition key back to OFF when the wipers are at the end of their sweep, farthest from rest.
3. Locate the wiper motor on the upper right on the firewall (to the right of the master brake cylinder).
4. Remove the wiring harness plug from the wiper motor. This may prove difficult if the plug has been on the motor for some time.
5. Using a socket, remove the three screws that hold the entire wiper motor assembly from the firewall. Note: do not remove just the motor cover, remove the entire assembly.
6. Pull the assembly away from the firewall, and carefully remove the locking clip from the wiper motor arm. You may need to use a screwdriver.
7. Slide the wiper linkage arm off of the wiper motor arm, and remove the entire assembly from the car.
8. Directly under the wiper motor arm, there is a rectangular plate that slides horizontally between two guide plates. These plates, over time, will bend downward and let the plate spin freely. This prevents the wipers from lowering properly, although they may work fine in normal operation. Lubricate the inside of the guide rails with grease. Line up the rectangular plate between the guide rails, with the notch on the top of the rectangular plate towards the passenger side of the motor assembly.
9. Using a flathead screwdriver, gently pry the rails back until they fit snugly with the rectangular plate.
10. To test the motor assembly, attach the wiring harness, and place the motor on a cloth to insulate it from any grounds in the engine compartment. Turn the key to accessory, and run the wipers though all of their speeds, making sure that the wiper motor arm stops in the same place every time they wipers are turned off.
11. Disconnect the wiring harness, and beginning with step 7, work backwards to reinstall the
wiper motor assembly. Test the wipers once the motor is installed in the car. If they still do not
work properly, it is a problem with wiring, or internally with the motor and it should be replaced.
8.0 Sources:
Burness, Tad, Ford Spotters Guide 1920-1992: 1993 Motorbooks International, Osceola WI
Gunnell, John T-Bird: 40 Years of Thunder: 1995, Krause Publications Inc, Iola WI
Stubblefield, Mike and Haynes, John H, Ford Thunderbird and Mercury Cougar Automotive
Repair Manual: 1988 Haynes North America Inc. Newbury Park, CA
9.0 Special Thanks To:
William O. Mullen
John Draxler - The Thunderbird Ranch
The MN12 Mailing List
The Mustang LX Registry
The Mustang FAQ
John Gunnell
Eric The Coolcat home page
The nice people at Haynes Automotive Manuals
Tom Colosimo - For hosting the page.
Penn State
Rochester Institute of Technology - for the use of their facilities for testing T-Bird performance.
John D. Naas II
Jack Ternack
Tom Jacobs
Gary Horn and his Thundercoupe Home Page
GTO Ray and the entire 1968 Cadillac Design team (there is a story behind this).
Thunderbird Ray (No relation to GTO Ray)
Charlie Oswald
Martin Bokesch
Danny W. (also a Fairmont and Granada fan)
Justin Rose
Freddie Colon
Rodney Hengst
John Nieuwejaar
Brien Wienke