Here, I will attempt to give a few hints, tips, etc., on DIY part installs on the Jeep. I won't bother doing the entire install on the Rubicon Express lift, as Harry from Harryworld already has an excellent writeup. I'll just toss in some additions, since his kit was of the older design. I also added a relay operated headlight conversion too. Once you understand how the relays work, they can be used for all kinds of neat things- reverse lights, fog lights, you name it!

The traditional before and after photos:

Note the 'lowrider' stock look!! You can see the ground clearance increase is considerable.

Now we get to the install tips...

Here is the new style control arms. The old style used heim-type joints, and the lower arms were adjustable in length. The new version has a solid lower control arm, and rebuildable articulation joints. They only cost like $10 to rebuild too! This is a shot of the front end, which we finished the first night.


This is a shot of the passenger side front control arms. Note the extended brake line provided. Look at that rust too- keep in mind, the TJ had about 1500 miles when we did the install, and I live in CA!!!!


This is the "Swapmeet" shot. One thing to note is when installing the adjustable front track bar, the manual states you are to use a 9/16" drill bit. THIS IS INCORRECT! It was a 5/8" bit. That may save you a $15 bit.
My front bumpstop extensions were missing from the box as well- they were sent out the following day. Just keep this in mind- check the parts first, or you'll be pulling the springs twice!!


Here is a shot of the rear suspension, almost complete. As with the front, the new lower arms are not adjustable. Note how close the shock comes to the spring perch. More on this later.
I needed an angle-head drill to churn out the extra mounting holes on the trackbar relocation bracket in the back as well. Just a note.


Aahh.. almost done. This was on the 3rd night, when we cut, drilled, and tapped the output shaft for the SYE kit. That was a royal pain! The Skil saw with metal cutting blade hacked through (using it carefully) in about 2 minutes. My friend Dolph (see Tacoma in off-road section) also used the blade to grind the shaft square.
Drilling wasn't too bad. The RE bit crapped out in about 4 minutes, so we switched to a cobalt steel bit, which finished the job. Tapping was a beeeeatch. The rest went easy.

WARNING: Previous RE customers: if you had a SYE kit that ran nice for awhile, then started to vibrate, you might have gotten one of the CV yoke adapters that wasn't fitted properly. Mine got loose after about 2000 miles. They sent me a new one, which is still tight at 11,500. The old one had an angular cut toward the transfer case on the 'snout', while the new one has a rounded edge.

Fine Tuning:
When the lift was on, NOT all was well. Something under the Jeep was clunking up a storm.
It turned out the rear trackbar was bumping on the stock skidplate (common with Dana 44 rears and the RE kit), and the shocks were tapping on the rear spring perches!!!
I cut a portion off the plate where the shock goes, about 1" long, using a dremel with a reinforced cut-of wheel. It took 5 wheels to do both. What fun! (another Dana 44 nice-ity)

Other than that, the kit works fine. At extreme articulation, the rear driver's side shock rubs lightly on the gas tank! Four X Doctor is currently working on a fix as we speak (new gas tank skid plate/support). I might have to pick one of those up!

I have some bumpsteer as well. nothing treacherous, but enough to be annoying. I didn't notice it at all with the 31" tires, only when I went with the 33's. I may increase caster to see if it helps. It does wander more easily with the larger rubber.

You want the lighting of the big boys? Here you go! I'll try to detail the entire system I rigged for the relay-operated headlights I made. The beauty of it is, should it burn out, you can re-plug in your stock connectors in a pinch, as long as you kept your standard wattage bulbs.

You will need two relays, and some heavy-gauge wiring for the headlights if you want to run the high-watters. Get some high quality relays, such as Bosch (I used these), and some nice wires. You can get a good fuse and wires from any high end auto sound shop.

(Sorry for the awful drawing. this is a relay's bottom)

UPDATE:  Finally, the relay pics!!

The three purple wrap-tied objects are my relays, and the one headlight connector (stock).

What I did was use one stock connector as a relay power wire and ground source for two relays, one for the headlights, and one for the high beams. You will need to probe the three hole headlight connector to figure out which hole powers which beam, and which is ground.
Unplug both headlight connectors. You need only use one- I used the one on the Passenger side.
Connect the ground on one side of the relay powering tabs on both relays. Then connect the powered wire from the low beam and high beam to their corresponding relay power tabs. The power and ground order on the relay switch power tabs is irrelevant. Now, when you turn on the headlights, the low-beam relay will click on, and when you click the highbeam, the low beam unit shuts off, and the high beam relay turns on. You should hear them click at this point.
Now, you must connect the ground tab on the new light connector (copy the stock ones for order) to a ground on the body. Then, connect the low and high beam power holes on the new connector to the switched-on tab of the corresponding relay.
You'll now need to connect the power-providing tab on both relays to the battery. I used a 30amp stereo fuse in between, and 8 gauge wire, if I remember correctly, to do the whole headlight power/ground wiring. The stock connector-to-relay-power wires need not be so thick- they do not carry much current.

Along with the relay system, I upgraded to Hella E-code headlamps, with halogen bulbs of 80W low/100W high beams. The lighting is SO much better it's incredible. I don't understand how people can drive with the stock lamps- they're a downright road hazard. The beams cut off too, so they're not blinding to cars ahead, though they do kick up to the right, which sometimes hits cars to that side, though I don;t think it's any worse than a stock headlamp in terms of blinding-ness on a 5+" lifted vehicle. My next mod will be to try a 90W low/130W high bulb.

Borla Header install (it'll be awhile- I'm going to snap pictures when I do mine).

Haha-  It's been a year.  Wait another 4 months, and MAYBE we'll see the header on the Jeep!!