Growing cacti and other succulents

Soil Mix

Most cacti and other succulents will be happy with equal parts of sandy loam, sand and organic material. Sandy loam is a light, silty, quick-draining soil such as that found in west and south Wichita. You might want to sterilize the soil if you have problems with nematodes or other soil-borne problems. The sand used should be coarse, including small pebbles as well as fine grains. Beach and silt sand are not recommended; they drain poorly and may retain harmful salts. Leaf mold is an excellent organic material. Sphagnum peat moss is easily available at nurseries, but some genera cannot tolerate it; e.g., Turbinicarpus. Peat also attracts fungus gnats.
You might want to add some inorganic materials to the basic mixture, such as pumice or perlite, both of which are porous and of volcanic origin, or granite chips, such as poultry grit. Chicken grit can be used in place of sand. Pumice and granite release minerals. Don't use vermiculite.
Many organic potting mixtures are available commercially. These are often useable with the addition of grit. Try half mix, half chicken grit.

Containers

Unglazed red clay pots are the traditional choice for cacti and succulents, but plastic pots work well for all but the touchiest species and are generally better for seedlings. Glazed or porcelain pots can be used, but more care must be taken when watering. Make sure that every pot has a bottom drain hole. Use the smallest pot that seems appropriate for the size and shape of the plant. Generally a pot one inch larger than the diameter of the plant works well and will provide some room for the plant to grow. Avoid overpotting; when in doubt use a smaller pot.

Watering

Cacti and succulents evolved to be very water-thrifty. They do need some water, but not as often as most other house plants. When watering them, don't just give them a thimbleful of water. Soak the potting mixture thoroughly. It is equally satisfactory to water the pots from the top in the usual manner, or from the bottom by placing the pot in a container of water until the soil is saturated. Let the soil dry before watering again. More cacti and succulents are lost to too-frequent watering than any other problem; when in doubt, don't water. Feeling the soil with your fingers is often a good way to judge dryness.
Most cacti and other succulents need a period to become dormant every year. Winter is the most frequent time for this, though some succulents prefer to rest during hot weather. At these times the plants require little or no water, and they therefore should be watered much less often then.

Fertilizing

When a plant is actively growing, a small amount of a balanced fertilizer can be used with each watering. Use fertilizers with relatively high phosphorus and potassium, e.g., 5-10-10. Avoid fertilizers with high nitrogen, such as fish emulsion. Follow the directions on the container.

Light

Nearly all succulents need bright light, but specific needs vary tremendously. Some can take full sun all day, while others are easily sunburnt and need afternoon shade. If you see signs of sunburn, move the plant out of direct sun.

Ventilation

All cacti and succulents need good ventiliation. Keep them out of damp and stagnant air. Don't expect them to flourish in terrariums.

Pests

Red spider mite, scale and mealy bug (spine, body and root types) are the most common. Check your local garden supply store for the appropriate pesticide and follow directions carefully Cacti and other succulents are seldom mentioned on pesticide labels, so organize your search by the pest you need to control. Something that will eliminate red spider from azaleas should also work for euphorbias. Before using a new chemical, read the entire label and make sure that it can be used on the plants you need to spray. Malathion, for instance, is effective against mealy bug, but it will defoliate crassulas.

(These instructions were adapted from an article by Allen H. Anderson in the May/June , 1981, issue of the CSSA Cactus & Succulent Journal,

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