The Big Book of Chemical, Powder, and Thermonuclear Explosives or: How to Blow up Things Compiled by: Mastermind This file distributed by: `@*-*-*-*THE RAZOR'S EDGE BBS*-*-*-*@' Lots of neat-o files like this one (203)675-1328 24 Hours A Day, 7 Days a Week Sysop: Harold Richards (Harry Dick) TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction........................................1 Chapter 1- Door Switch and Explosive................2 Chapter 2- Chemical Explosives......................5 1. Carbide Bomb................................5 2. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower..................5 3. Unstable Solid Explosion....................5 4. Poisonous Gas Bomb..........................6 5. Napalm......................................6 6. Electrically Activated Gell Explosion.......7 7. Bolt Bomb...................................7 8. Mine........................................7 9. Chlorine Bomb...............................8 10. Poison BB Gun...............................8 11. Simple Plastique............................8 12. Oven Cleaner Vaporizer......................9 Chapter 3- Plastic Explosive........................10 Chapter 4- Smoke Bombs and other Harmlessness.......13 1. Smoke Bomb 1 (Chemical).....................13 2. Smoke Bomb 2 (Powder).......................13 3. Stink Bomb..................................13 4. Imitation Marijuana (just for fun)..........13 Chapter 5- How to make Explosive Powders(gunpowder).15 Chapter 6- Gunpowder Explosives.....................21 1. Arrow Rocket Launcher.......................21 2. Special Effects Explosion...................21 3. Tennis Ball Bomb............................21 4. Tennis Ball Bomb Launcher...................21 Chapter 7- Making a an H-Bomb.......................23 1. Getting the Ingredients.....................23 2. Stuffing your A-Bomb........................27 3. Putting Your H-Bomb together................29 4. What to do with Your Bomb...................30 Technical Information...............................34 Introduction I made this using various pieces of information collected from a number of BBS's and people. I am only saying this because I expect a lot of people to read this and say "Hell, I read this before!" Well, I didn't write the majority of this stuff, but I did put in into a common format and correct the spelling. If you read all of this, and you still think that I didn't really do any work, well SCREW YOU! If ANYONE has any other explosive information that you think should be included in this book, send a message to MASTERMIND on the Razor's Edge BBS. MOST OF THIS IS UNTESTED AND I HAVE NO PROOF OF VALIDITY! I wouldn't try any of this and I take no responsibility for misuse of this PURELY informational document. Then again, if you make an atomic weapon, none of us have to worry about being arrested, do we? Door Switch and Explosive It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned. Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger boil. Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit (details below.) Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of an effective note: "Don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your hand. Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a homicidal psychopath. Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions. Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit: The parts you'll need are: 1) 4 aa batteries 2) 1 9-volt battery 3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack) 4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80) 5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store) 6) 1 9-volt battery connector step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed position thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.) Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and effectively. Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on the relay. Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80). Your kit is now complete! ---------><--------- I (CONTACTS) I I I I --- (9 VOLT) I - (BATTERY) I --- I I I (COIL) I ------///////------- /----------- / I / I / I (SWITCH) I I I I I --- (BATTERY) I - ( PACK ) I --- I I I I ---- ----- I I * (SOLAR IGNITOR) Chemical Explosives 1. Carbide Bomb This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If the gas touched a spark or whatever then KAABOOM! A very big kabom too. CAUTION: extreme pressure is built up when the gas starts. This may be enough to blow it up without the flame. About 5 rocks and a little water in a rubbing alcohol bottle with a hole in the top is about he equivalent of an M-80. I haven't tried a full bottle yet though... 2. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!! 3. Unstable Solid Explosion First, get some Iodine crystals and some filter paper(coffee filter). put the filter in a funnel over a box or the ground (NOT YOUR SINK!), put the iodine crystals in it and pour ammonia SLOWLY over it. When saturated, scrape out of filter(carefully) and place in some cute little place.Such as stairs, sidewalk(if you want to kill someone, put it in their gas tank). It'l dry and become so unstable that if you let even a GENTLE fart on it it will blow your 'nads to Jersey.THIS STUFF IS VERY UNSTABLE, ESPECIALLY WHEN DRY! 4. Poisonous Gas Bomb Here's a fun thing to do at a party or other happy occasion. You get some hydrochloric acid (also known as muriatic acid) from a store that sells swimming pool supplies. (hydrochloric acid is used to kill algae in pools) Mix it with gasoline, then pour it into a bottle and cap it tightly. When you are ready to use this, you simply open it up and drop in a couple of chunks(10cm) of aluminum cut from a pipe or slab. It should take a few minutes to react (if you stored it in a TIGHTLY capped bottle),and when it does, you better be out of there because first-it bursts the bottle, producing a large,dark cloud of poison gas. Then,if there is anyone is smoking, the whole room should literally explode and become a ball of fire. 5. Napalm Napalm can be made by mixing one part soap (either soap flakes or shredded bar soap) with one part gasoline. The problem with this is that the gasoline must be heated so the soap will melt. Take a can and mix up a lot of gas and oil. Totally soak a tennis ball in it overnight, and take it out the next day. Wipe it off (don't worry,the stuff will soak in.)then tie a string around it and allow about 3 feet of slack. Light the ball, and watch out!! Walk down the street swinging the fireball over your head,and you have several options.. 6. Electrically Activated Gell Explosion Ok, you will need: 1) 6-volt battery 2) Two wires 3) 3 parts gasoline 4) 2 parts Vaseline Mix the gas with the Vaseline and let it gel. This should take 1- 3 days depending on the amount. After it has gelled stick the ends of two preferably LONG wires in it. Put the other ends of the wires on the + and -ends of the battery. Of course, you might want to use a switch or something. 7. Bolt Bomb What you need: 2 bolts (same size) 1 nut (fits bolts) Some matches 1) Scrape the tips off the matches (the type that light anywhere) 2) Screw the nut onto a bolt so that less than half the nut is actually touching the bolt. 3) Place match tips in hole formed by nut 4) Screw the second bolt onto the free end of the nut, trapping the match tips between the 2 bolts 5) Throw it far (and run like hell), upon impact, the match tips will explode, sending both bolts flying in opposite directions. It can cause serious damage if one hits you! 8. Mine What you will need : 1 M-80 (or something similar) 3 wires 1 9-volt battery 1 solar igniter 1 pressure switch Directions: 1) Connect wires from battery to switch to solar igniter to battery. 2) Replace fuse on M-80 with solar igniter 3) Bury M-80 (and battery) under a light coat of dirt 4) Place switch in enemy's path, uncovered, but not visible. 5) Wait.... and BOOM! Note: For best results, place M-80 3 feet behind switch, there is a slight delay before the explosion occurs and we wouldn't want him to miss it... would we! 9. Chlorine Bomb First get 2 beer bottles with caps or 2 baby food bottles with tops may be used then fill 1 bottle with chlorine (Don't mix them directly together, as doing so will result in an irreversable state of death.) then cap tightly. Next fill other bottle with gas then cap tightly. Next tape both bottles together then throw when bottles break and the shit mixes it's gonna make a huge explosion just like a bomb! 10. Poisonous BB Gun Take about 1 cup of bleach and mix it with one cup vinegar and one teaspoon of baking soda. Soak the BB's in this and go hunting. Editors note: This is VERY painful, and not recommended 11. Simple Plastique (A more detailed explanation is the next chapter) Ingredients: one gallon of BLEACH a heat source (fire,stove,etc) white gasoline (avalable at camping supply stores) a aluminum pan distilled water plastic bowl Vaselene wax solar, or wick igniters POTASSIUM CHLORATE (available at any grocery store substitute.) a hydrometer First empty the bleach into the pan, and begin heating it. Add PRECICLY 63 grams of Potassium Chlorate. Boil this until it reads 1.3 on the hydrometer. Remove, and place in a cool place, such as in a refrigerator. Skim off the crystals and save them. Do it all again so you have two sets of crystals. Mix EXACTLY 53 grams od crystals to EXACTLY 100 milliliters of distilled water. Heat and save the crystals. Powder them finely, and then heat it to dry off the moisture. Mix 1 part of this with 5 parts vaseline, 5 parts wax, and 5 parts gasoline. Break off a piece. A 2.9 gram piece will have the exlposion of one stick of TNT!!! 12. Oven Cleaner Vaporizer Here's a neat trick by the author. Take about 3 feet of aluminum foil, and spray a hell of a lot of oven clear on it. Wrap of the foil into a loose ball and chuck it in an enclosed space, such as a locker, car etc etc. It will fumigate the area and make it impossible to breathe or see. WARNING: It will also heat up quite a bit, to the point where it burns to touch. It probably won't ignite anything, but I wouldn't risk it. Plastic Explosive This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is toxic and the explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restricts its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It's the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid.(aspirin purified). This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin. The whole mixture is then drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and aluminum. These salts are a primary explosive and are super sensitive. They will also cause the detonation of the picric acid. Next needed is aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistency. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyre dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system. It is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any procedure in this book with good ventilation or do it outside. Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. Brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling, distilled water. Allow this to cool and then filter the crystals out of the water. These crystals are very, very pure trinitrophenol. Place these crystals in a pyrex dish, put that in an oil bath and heat it to 80 deg. C. and keep it there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. Powder the crystals in small quantities to a face powder consistency. Combine these crystals (by weight) with 10% wax and 5% Vaseline which you should heat to melting temperature and poured into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plasticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES. AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH IT. IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE IS NOT RECOMMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE CREATED AS NEEDED. A V O I D C O N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S E X E P T T I N A N D A L U M I N U M ! ! ! Smoke Bombs and other Harmlessness 1. Smoke Bomb 1 Ingredients: 1 One tin can such as a soup can 4 parts sugar 6 parts Epsom salt Mix together. Put under a low flame such as a lighter or a small fire. Let it sit over the fire until it starts to gel. Take it off, and let it sit for a while until it hardens. Then you drop a match in it or something then run because four pounds of this thing will fill a city block! 2. Smoke Bomb 2 At least 3 "D" size model rocket engines 4 tissues A cloth A hammer First strip off all of the paper on the engines. Then wrap the engines in the cloth. Crush the engines with a hammer (try not to make sparks, or you'll ruin a good hammer and most of your face). Take this powder and wrap in a tissue. Light it, and it will make smoke. 3. Stink Bomb By weight: 1 part potassium chlorate 1 part sugar 1 part formaldyhyde Mix this up, IT REEKS. Keep in a waterproof container. 4. Imitation Marijuana Marijuana Homemade, but it works!. First get a banana. Take the peel off (eat the insides), and dry the peel it out until it's crumbly. Crush it into small chunks. Believe me, it works.(Not as good as the real stuff, but if you're too cheap to buy it...) How to make Explosive Powders(gunpowder) All information contained in this file is purely for academic study. I am not responsible for any injuries/damages arising from the use of this information. Good luck. Flash Powder is a chemical mixture that burns extremely fast. The mixture burns so fast that it appears to burn instantly, producing a bright flash of light. Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts larger than 4 ounces even when it is not contained. In very small amounts flash powder will produce a very loud explosion when contained, even in a container made of just a few layers of paper. Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that will burn and an oxidizer. Powdered aluminum is used the most because it is cheaper. Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work. The oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate, Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium Peroxide, Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate, Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium Chlorateassium Permanganate, and any combination of the above. All the chlorates (and the Permanganate) are friction and impact sensitive. Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive of the Chlorates. All the chemicals should be crushed into a very fine powder, about 400 mil or smaller. 400 mil is about like common kitchen type flour. Black German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder. It has a particle size of 400 mil for 98% of the aluminum material. The other 2% is larger than 400 mil. There are other aluminum powders that are equal to or better than Black German Aluminum. Aluminum Pyro Powder is also a brand name. The particle size is 70% 400 mil. the other 30% is larger than 400 mil. FLASH POWDER FORMULAS- [1] This formula is one of the best. It produces a very very extremely loud explosion. Easy to ignite with a fuse. It is not moisture absorbent. Not very sensitive to impact or friction. Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate can be used instead of Potassium Perchlorate but then it becomes very sensitive to friction and impact. 4 ounces of this mixture will produce an explosion equal to a stick of dynamite. Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Aluminum Powder (98% -400) 1 oz. [2] This formula produces an extremely loud explosion that is almost as good as #1. This is what almost all M-80s, firecrackers, etc. are made with. Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz. [3] This formula is equal to #2 and is not sensitive to friction or impact. Bariue Peroxide 9 oz. 50%/50% magnesium/aluminum powder (98% -200 mil) 1 oz. [4] This formula works as good as formula #2 but it produces a very bright flash. This is what used to be used for the photo flash for the old box type cameras about 100 years ago. Barium Nitrate 3 oz. Potassium Perchlorate 3 oz. Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 4 oz. [5] This formula works very good. It is not very impact or friction sensitive. It produces a very, very loud explosion. Potassium perchlorate contains 46.1914 percent oxygen. Almost equal to #2. Sulfur can be added to increase quantity of powder without loosing too much power. Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz. [5] This formula works as good as #5 but it has a disadvantage of being moisture absorbent and is very impact and friction sensitive. Sodium Chlorate Contains 45.0937 percent oxygen. Produces a very, very loud explosion. Sodium Chlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz. [7] This formula is very dangerous because it is very sensitive to friction and impact and could explode during the construction of any explosive device. Potassium Chlorate contains 39.1664 percent oxygen. This formula produces an explosion almost equal to #5 and #6. Used in the manufacture of toy cap pistol caps. Potassium Chlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder 1 oz. [8] This formula is very, very very sensitive to impact, friction, and static electricity, even more sensitive than #7. Extremely dangerous. Will ignite even when wet. Potassium Chlorate 6.7 oz. Red Phosphorus 2.7 oz. Sulfur .3 oz. Calcium Carbonate .3 oz. [9] This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It is slightly friction and impact sensitive. Potassium Permanganate contains 40.4691 percent oxygen. This formula will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion. Potassium Permanganate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder 1 oz. [10] This formula produces a very small explosion when ignited in a paper tube. A much louder explosion is produced when it is ignited in a very strong container. It is impact and friction sensitive. Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Charcoal dust 1.5 oz. Sulfur 1.0 oz. [11] This formula is a little louder than formula #10. Impact and friction sensitive. Produces a small explosion in a paper tube. Sodium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Charcoal dust 1.5 oz. Sulfur 1.0 oz. [12] No information is available about this formula. Potassium Chlorate 6 oz. Antimony Sulfide 3 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. 13. No information is available about this formula. Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Gallic acid 2.2 oz. Red gum 0.3 oz. CAUTION ------- The mixture of any Fhlorate with phosphorus or sulfur is extremely sensitive to friction and percussion and explodes with great violence. Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium nitrate explosives since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these two substances are brought into contact, explodes. When mixing Chlorates with Sulfur, crush all the chemicals separately. Then place all the chemicals in a bag to be mixed. Hang the bag from the ceiling, pole or a tree limb. A long pole is then attached to the bottom of the bag. The long pole is inserted through a wall and the operator stands behind the wall for safety. The operator can then shake the bag safely. 4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as a stick of dynamite. One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks of dynamite. 8 ounces of powder will make 100 M-80's if each contains 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder. M-80's with 1/4 teaspoon are almost as loud but do not have quite the destructive force as the ones with 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder. CHEMICALS --------- Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware stores, drug stores, lumber yards, plumbing supply, cement companies and many other stores. Sodium Chlorate- O2 solid oxygen pellets are made of about 90% sodium chlorate. O2 solid pellets are used in small workshop torches. Potassium Nitrate- Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles. Also sold at farmers co-op stores. Sulfur- Sold by farmers co-op, drug stores, and lawn and garden centers Aluminum Powder- Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores. Aluminum powder can be found in radiator leaks Sodium Nitrate- Sold powder. Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores. Antimony Sulfide.- Is sold by most plumbing supply stores. Potassium Permanganate- It is used for water treatment. Check your phone book for water treatment equipment. Ammonium Nitrate- Can be bought from any farmers' co-op or lawn and garden center. Red Phosphorus- The white tip on wooden matches contains red Phosphorus. Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial chemical supplies. They will have almost all of the chemicals you need in large quantities. If you intend to make M-80's I strongly recommend sending a SASE to this company asking for their catalog. FULL AUTO P.O. Box 1881 Murfreesboro, TN 37133 Gunpowder Explosives 1. Arrow Rocket Launcher If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF). Then glue a shotshell primer into the hole where the ferrule used to be. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby. Little shreds of aluminum go all over the place!! 2. Special Effects Explosion 2 teaspoons zinc powder 1 teaspoon Potassium Chlorate 3 teaspoons charcoal dust 2 teaspoons Strontium Nitrate 1/3 teaspoon Sulphur Here's a good terrorist explosive that is too good to be true. It's more powerful than most *BLASTING* powders, lots of smoke, and a nice red flame. I got a big whiff of the smoke and it gave me a headache for about three hours. Great for parties. 3. Tennis Ball Bomb Take a tennis ball, and cut a slit in the top. Fill halfway up with sand, then fill up the remaining half with gunpowder. Give it a little lighter fluid, then shake well to mix the powders. Causes sand to shoot out with great force. 4. Tennis Ball Bomb Launcher Easy. Take 5 or six coffee cans, but out the bottoms except for one, and tie them together with duct tape. Fill the bottom of the can with the powder from 3 or 4 large model rocket engines. Drill a hole in the bottom of the can and insert a wick. Put a tennis ball inside the can, light, and run. For added effectiveness, use a tennis ball made like the one in number 2 above. Then again, it might just blow up in your face. Making a Atom Bomb PART 1- GETTING THE INGREDIENTS Uranium is the basic ingredient of the A-bomb. When a uranium atom's nucleus splits apart it releases a tremendous amount of energy (for its size), and it emits neutrons which go on to split other nearby uranium nuclei, releasing more energy in what is called a 'chain reaction'. (When atoms split matter is converted into energy according to Einstein's equation E=mc2. What better way to mark his centennial than with your own atomic fireworks?) There are two kinds (isotopes) of uranium. One is the rare U-235 (used in bombs) and other is the more common (heavier) but useless U-238. Natural uranium contains less than 1 percent U-235 and in order to be usable in bombs it has to be 'enriched' to 90 percent U-235 and only 10 percent U-238. Plutonium- 239 can also be used in bombs as a substitute for U-235. Ten pounds of U-235 (or slightly less plutonium) is all that is necessary for a bomb. Less than ten pounds won't give you a critical mass. So purifying or enriching naturally occurring uranium is likely to be your first big hurdle. It is infinitely easierto steal ready-to-use enriched uranium or plutonium than to enrich some yourself. And stealing uranium is not as hard as it sounds. There are at least three sources of enriched uranium or plutonium. Enriched uranium is manufactured at a gaseous-diffusion plant in Portsmouth Ohio. From there it is shipped in 10 liter bottles by airplane and trucks to conversion plants that turn it into uranium oxide or uranium metal. Each 10 liter bottle contains 7 kilograms of U-235, and there are 20 bottles to a typical shipment. Conversion facilities exist at Hematite Missouri Apollo Pennsylvania and Erwin Tennessee. The Kerr-McGee plant at Crescent Oklahoma where Karen Silkwood worked was a conversion plant that 'lost' 40 lbs of plutonium. Enriched uranium can be stolen from these plants or from fuel fabricating plants like those in New Haven San Diego or Lynchburg Virginia. (A former Kerr-McGee supervisor James V. Smith when asked at the Silkwood trial if there were any security precautions at the plant to prevent theft testified that 'There were none of any kind,no guards no fences no nothing.') Plutonium can be obtained from places like United Nuclear in Pawling,New York, Nuclear Fuel Services in Erwin, Tennessee, General Electric in Pleasanton,California, Westinghouse in Cheswick,Pennsylvania, Nuclear Materials and Equipment Corporation (NUMEC) in Leechburg,Pennsylvania and plants in Hanford,Washington and Morris,Illinois. According to Rolling Stone magazine the Isrealis were involved in the theft of plutonium from NUMEC. Finally you can steal enriched uranium or plutonium while it's en route from conversion plants to fuel fabricating plants. It is usually transported (by air or truck) in the form of uranium oxide, (a brownish powder resembling instant coffee) or as a metal coming in small chunks called 'broken buttons.' Both forms are shipped in small cans stacked in 5-inch cylinders braced with welded struts in the center of ordinary 55-gallon steel drums. The drums weigh about 100 pounds and are clearly marked 'Fissile Material' or 'Danger- Plutonium.' A typical shipment might go from the enrichment plant at Portsmouth Ohio to the conversion plant in Hematite Missouri then to Kansas City by truck where it would be flown to Los Angeles and then trucked down to the General Atomic plant in San Diego. The plans for the General Atomic plant are on file at the Nuclear Regulatory Commission's reading room at 1717 H Street NW Washington. A Xerox machine is provided for the convenience of the public. If you can't get hold of any enriched uranium you'll have to settle for commercial grade(20 percent U-235). This can be stolen from university reactors of a type called TRIGA Mark II -where security is even more casual than at commercial plants. If stealing uranium seems too tacky you can buy it. Unenriched uranium is available at any chemical supply house for $23 a pound. Commercial grade (3 to 20 percent enriched) is available for $40 a pound from Gulf Atomic. You'll have to enrich it further yourself. Quite frankly this can be something of a pain in the ass. You'll need to start with a little more than 50 pounds of commercial grade uranium (it's only 20 percent U-235 at best and you need 10 pounds of U-235 so...). But with a little kitchen table chemistry you'll be able to convert the solid uranium oxide you've purchased into a liquid form. Once you've done that You'll be able to separate the U-235 you'll need from the U-238. First pour a few gallons of concentrated hydroflouric acid into your uranium oxide converting it to uranium tetraflouride. (Safety note- Concentrated hydroflouric acid is so corrosive that it will eat its way through glass, so store it only in plastic. Used 2-gallon plastic milk containers will do.) Now you have to convert your uranium tetraflouride to uranium hexaflouride, (the gaseous form of uranium) which is convenient for separating out the isotope U-235 from U-238. To get the hexaflouride form bubble flourine gas into your container of uranium tetraflouride. Flourine is available in pressurized tanks from chemical-supply firms. Be careful how you use it though because flourine is several times more deadly than chlorine the classic World War I poison gas. Chemists recommend that you carry out this step under a stove hood (the kind used to remove unpleasant cooking odors). If you've done your chemistry right you should now have a generous supply of uranium hexaflouride ready for enriching. In the old horse-and- buggy days of A-bomb manufacture the enrichment was carried out by passing the uranium hexaflouride through hundreds of miles of pipes, tubes, and membranes until the U-235 was eventually separated from the U-238. This gaseous-diffusion process, as it was called, is difficult time consuming and expensive. Gaseous-diffusion plants cover hundreds of acres and cost in the neighborhood of $2-billion each. So forget it. There are easier and cheaper ways to enrich your uranium. First transform the gas into a liquid by subjecting it to pressure. You can use a bicycle pump for this. Then make a simple home centrifuge Fill a standard-size bucket one quarter full of liquid uranium hexaflouride. Attach a six-foot rope to the bucket handle. Now swing the rope (and attached bucket) around your head as fast as possible. Keep this up for about 45 minutes. Slow down gradually and very gently put the bucket on the floor. The U-235 (which is lighter) will have risen to the top, where it can be skimmed off like cream. Repeat this step until you have the required 10 pounds of uranium. (Safety note-Don't put all your enriched uranium hexaflouride in one bucket. Use at least two or three buckets and keep them in separate corners of the room. This will prevent the premature build-up of a critical mass.) Now it's time to convert your enriched uranium back to metal form This is easily enough accomplished by spooning several ladlefuls of calcium (available in tablet form from your drugstore) into each bucket of uranium. The calcium will react with the uranium hexafloride to produce calcium flouride, a colorless salt which can be easily be separated from your pure enriched uranium metal. A few precautions- Uranium is not dangerously radioactive in the amounts you'll be handling. If you plan to make more than one bomb it might be wise to wear gloves and a lead apron (the kind you can buy in dental supply stores). Plutonium is one of the most toxic substances known. If inhaled, even one-thousandth of a gram can cause massive fibrosis of the lungs (a painful way to go). Even a millionth of a gram in the lungs will cause cancer. If eaten, plutonium is metabolized like calcium. It goes straight to the bones where it gives out alpha particles preventing bone marrow from manufacturing red blood cells. The best way to avoid inhaling plutonium is to hold your breath while handling it. If this is too difficult wear a mask. To avoid ingesting plutonium orally follow this simple rule Never make an A-bomb on an empty stomach. If you find yourself dozing off while you're working or if you begin to glow in the dark it might be wise t take a blood count. Prick your finger with a sterile pin, and place a drop of blood on a microscope slide. Cover it with a cover slip, and examine under a microscope (a low power kid's microscope should do). If you count much over 0.3 percent white cells - call a doctor. If you count more than 10%, call a morgue. PART 2- STUFFING YOUR A-BOMB You will now have three or four bowls of uranium metal. Keep the bowls covered, as you don't want your silvery white uranium to tarnish. Now take about five pounds of the uranium and pack it into a hemispheric steel bowl (a stainless-steel salad bowl should do). Uranium is malleable, like gold, so you should have no trouble hammering it into the bowl to get a good fit. Take another five pound hunk o uranium and fit it into a second stainless steel bowl. These two bowls of U-235 are the 'subcritical masses' which when brought together forcefully will provide the critical mass that makes your A- bomb go. Keep them a respectful distance apart while working because you don't want them to 'go critical' on you...at least not yet. Now hollow out the body of an old vacuum cleaner and place your two hemispherical bowls inside, open ends facing each other, no less than seven inches apart, using masking tape to set them up in position. The reason for the steel bowls and the vacuum cleaner (in case you're wondering) is that these help reflect the neutrons back into the uranium for a more efficient explosion. 'A loose neutron is a useless neutron' as the A-bomb pioneers used to say. As far as the A-bomb goes you're almost done. The final problem is to figure out how to get the two U-235 hemispheres to smash into each other with sufficient force to set off a truly effective fission reaction. Almost any type of explosive can be used to drive them together. Gunpowder (for example) is easily made at home from potassium nitrate, sulphur, and carbon. Or you can get some blasting caps or TNT (buy them or steal them from a construction site.) Best of all is C4 plastic explosive. You can mold it around your bowls and it's fairly safe to work with (but it might be wise to shape it around an extra salad bowl in another room and then fit it to your stainless-steel bowls). Once the explosives are in place all you need to do is hook up a simple detonation device with a few batteries a switch and some wire. Remember though that it is essential that the two charges one on each side of the casing go off at once. Now put the whole thing in the casing of an old Hoover vacuum cleaner and your finished with this part of the process. The rest is easy. A word to the wise about wastes - After your A-bomb is completed you'll have a pile of moderately fatal radioactive wastes like U-238. These are not dangerous but you do have to get rid of them. You can flush leftovers down the toilet (don't worry about polluting the ocean, there is already so much radioactive waste there, a few more bucketfuls won't make waves) Or, if your the fastidious type, the kind who never leaves gum under their seat at the movies, you can seal the nasty stuff in coffee cans and bury it in the backyard, just like Uncle Sam does. If the neighbors' kids have a habit of trampling the lawn tell them to play over by the waste. You'll soon find that they're spending most of their time in bed. Going first class- If you're like us, you're feeling the economic pinch, and you'll want to make your bomb as inexpensively as possible, consonant of course with reasonable yield. The recipe we've given is for a budget-pleasing H-bomb, no frills, nor flourishes. Just your basic 5-megaton bomb capable of wiping out the New York metropolitan area, the Bay area, or Boston. But don't forget, your H-bomb will only be as good as the A-bombs in it. If you want to spend a little more money you can punch up your A-bomb considerably. Instead of centrifuging your uranium by hand -you can buy a commercial centrifuge (Fisher Scientific sells one for about $1000). You also might want to be fussier about your design. The Hiroshima bomb, a relatively crude one, only fissioned 1 percent of it's uranium and yielded only 13 kilotons. In order to fission more of the uranium, the force of your explosive 'trigger' has got to be evenly diffused around the sphere, the same pressure has to be exerted on every point of the sphere simultaneously. (It was a technique for producing this sort of simultaneous detonation by fashioning the explosives into lenses that the government accused Julius and Ethel Rosenberg of trying to steal). MAKE THREE MORE A-BOMBS FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS ABOVE. PART 3- PUTTING YOUR H-BOMB TOGETHER The heart of the H-bomb is the fusion process. Several A-bombs are detonated in such a way as to create the extremely high temperature (100 million degrees C) necessary to fuse lithium deuteride (LiD) into helium. When the lithium nucleus slams into the deuterium nucleus two helium nuclei are created. If this happens to enough deuterium nuclei rapidly enough the result is an enormous amount of energy. The energy of the H-bomb. And you don't have to worry about stealing lithium deuteride it can be purchased from any chemical-supply house. costs $1000 a pound. If your budget won't allow it you can substitute lithium hydride at $40 a pound. You will need at least 100 pounds. It's a corrosive and toxic powder so be careful. Place the lithium deuterid or hydride in glass jars and surround it with four A-bombs in their casings. Attach one to the same detonator so that they will go off simultaneously. The container for the whole thing is no problem. They can be placed anywhere (inside an old stereo console, a discarded refrigerator -etc.). When the detonator sets off the four A-bombs all eight hemispheres of fissionable material will slam into each other at the same time creating four critical masses and four detonations. This will raise the temperature of the lithium deuteride to 100 million degrees C fast enough(a few billionths of a second) so that the lithium will not be blown all over the neighborhood before the nuclei have time to fuse. The result at least 1000 times the punch of the puny A-bomb that leveled Hiroshima (20 million tons of TNT vs. 20 thousand tons.) PART 4- WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR BOMB Now that you have a fully assembled H-bomb housed in an attractive console of your choice you may be wondering 'What should I do with it?' Every family will have to answer this question according to its own tastes and preferences but you may want to explore some possibilities which have been successfully pioneered by the American government. 1.SELL YOUR BOMB AND MAKE A PILE OF MONEY In these days of rising inflation, rising unemployment, and an uncertain economic outlook, few businesses make as much sense as weapons production. If your career forecast is cloudy, bomb sales may be the only sure way to avoid the humiliation of receiving welfare or unemployment. At any income level a home H-bomb business can be an invaluable income supplement, and certainly a profitable alternative to selling Tupperware or pirated Girl Scout cookies. Unfortunately for the family bomb business, big government has already cornered a large part of the world market. However, this does not mean that there is a shortage of potential customers. The raid on Entebee was the Waterloo of hijacking and many nationalist groups are now on the alert for new means to get their message across. They'd jump at the chance to get hold of an H-bomb. Emerging nations that can't ante up enough rice or sugar to buy themselves a reactor from G.E. or Westinghouse are also shopping around. You may wonder about the ethics of selling to nations or groups whose goal you disapprove of. But here again take a tip from our government 'Forget ideology! It's cash that counts!!!' And remember H-bomb sales have a way of escalating almost like a chain reaction. Suppose you make a sale to South Yemen which you believe to be a Soviet puppet. Well within a few days some discrete inquiries from North Yemen and possibly the Saudis, the Egyptions and the Ethiopians as well can be expected. Similarly, a sale to the IRA will generate a sale to the Ulster government. A sale to the Tanzanians will bring the Ugandans running and so forth. It doesn't matter which side you're on, only how many sides there are. Don't forget about the possibility of repeat sales to the same customer. As the experience of the U.S and the U.S.S.R. has shown each individual nation has a potentially infinite need for H-bombs. No customer, no matter how small, can ever have too many. 2.USE YOUR BOMB AT HOME Many families are attracted to the H-bomb simply as a 'deterrent'. A discrete sticker on the door or on the living room window saying 'This Home Protected by H-Bomb' will discourage IRS investigators, census takers, and Jehovah's Witnesses. You'll be surprised how fast the crime rate will go down and property values will go up. And once the news gets out that you are a home H-bomb owner you'll find that you have unexpected leverage in neighborhood disputes over everything from parking places and stereo noise levels to school-tax rates. So relax and enjoy the pride and excitement of home H-bomb ownership! IS IT FOR YOU? Let's be honest. The H-bomb isn't for everyone. Frankly there are people who can't handle it. They break out in hives at the very mention of megadeaths, fallout, and radiation sickness. The following quiz will help you find out whether you have what it takes for home H-bomb ownership. If you can answer 'yes' to six or more of these questions then your emotionally eligible to join the nuclear club. If not, a more conventional weapon may be more your cup of tea. Try botulism, toxin, laser rays, or nerve gas. Here's the quiz- 1. I have learned to say 'no' to the unfair demands of others. 2. I subscribe to one or more of the following: Soldier of Fortune, Hustler, Popular Mechanics, Self. 3. Though I have many interesting acquaintances ,I am my own best friend. 4. I know what to say after you say 'Hello' -but I am seldom interested in pursuing the conversation. 5. I have seen the movie 'The Deer Hunter' more than once. 6. I know that everone can be a winner if they want to, and I resent whiners. 7. I own one or more of the following- handgun, video game, trash compactor, snowmobile. 8. I am convinced that leukemia is psychosomatic. 9. I am aware that most vegetarians are sexually impotent. 10.I have read evidence that solar energy is a Communist conspiracy. MYTHS ABOUT NUCLEAR WAR Ever since the first mushroom cloud over Hiroshima ushered in the atomic age a small group of nay sayers and doommongers has lobbied, campaigned and demonstrated to convince Americans that H-bomb ownership, along with nuclear power, is dangerous and unhealthy. Using their virtual stranglehold over the media these people have tried to discredit everything nuclear from energy to war. They have vastly over rated the risks of nuclear bombs and left many Americans feeling demoralized and indecisive, not sure where the truth lies. Well, here are the myths, and here are the facts. Myth- After a nuclear exchange the earth will no longer be suitable for human habitation. Fact- This is completely false. Even if humans succumbed many forms of life would survive a nuclear free-for-all such as cockroaches certain forms of bacteria and lichens. Myth- Radiation is bad for you. Fact- Everything is bad for you if you have too much of it. If you eat too many bananas you'll get a stomach-ache. If you get too much sun you can get sunburned (or even skin cancer). Same thing with radiation. Too much may make you feel under the weather, but nuclear industry officials insist that there is no evidence that low-level radiation has any really serious adverse effects, and high-level radiation may bring unexpected benefits. It speeds up evolution by weeding out unwanted genetic types and creating new ones. (Remember the old saying - 'Two heads are better than one.') Nearer home it's plain that radiation will get rid of pesky crab grass and weeds and teenagers will find that brief exposure to a nuclear burst vaporizes acne and other skin blemishes. (Many survivors of the Hiroshima bomb found that they were free from skin and it's attendant problems forever.) Technical Information EXPLOSIVE- Any material that produces a rapid, violent reaction when acted upon by heat or a strong blow. It must consist of A. An oxidizer, and B. A fuel. There are four main groups of explosives-- PRIMARY EXPLOSIVES must be handled in small quantities. They are extremely sensitive to heat, and even a spark of static electricity can cause them to explode. Common primary explosives include lead azide, lead styphnate, and mercury fulminate. They are chiefly used in devices called detonators to set off other explosives. HIGH EXPLOSIVES detonate with greater power than primary explosives but are less sensitive. Common types of high explosives include nitroglycerin, TNT, and PETN. They are used for blasting and excavating, but they are also used by the miltary in bombs, shells, and grenades. BLASTING AGENTS are the safest and least expensive explosives used in industry. They are used to shatter rock. A common blasting agent is dynamite. LOW EXPLOSIVES burn rapidly rather then explode, such as gunpowder. It is used as a propellant in guns and fireworks. This has been a ³\ /³ /\ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³ \ / ³ / \ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ \ / ³ / \ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³ ³ ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ ³ \ / ³ /ÄÄÄÄÄÄ\ ³ ³ ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ³ \ ³ \ / ³ / \ ³ ³ ³ ³ \ ³ \/ ³ / \ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ³ \ ³\ /³ ÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄ ³\ ³ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ\ ³ \ / ³ ³ ³ \ ³ ³ \ ³ \ / ³ ³ ³ \ ³ ³ \ ³ \ / ³ ³ ³ \ ³ ³ > ³ \ / ³ ³ ³ \ ³ ³ / ³ \/ ³ ÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄ ³ \³ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ/ Production --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Look for more in 1992! EOF. 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